Stella McCartney's graduation show has gone down in fashion history. When the fledgling designer completed her degree from Central Saint Martins in 1995, she had a trio of close friends model her final collection on the catwalk. Those friends happened to be Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Yasmin Le Bon.
Looking back on the show more than 20 years later, McCartney has admitted she feels "a bit embarrassed." The supermodels' presence on the catwalk turned a relatively humble graduation show into "headline news" and may have "pissed off" her classmates.
"I look back on that moment and just feel a bit embarrassed that I was so naive," McCartney said on the latest episode of Radio 4's Desert Island Discs. "They were my mates and that's who I was hanging out with when I was at college – I mean, Kate was living with me for a period of time. So when it came to choosing the models for my degree show, I kind of thought I might as well ask my friends."
"But it was a very Brit moment. It was a moment where Brit was flying," McCartney added. "These girls were travelling the world representing Great Britain, really. I do think, had another person have asked them [to model a graduation show], that they might have done it."
During the episode, McCartney also revealed that she used a different surname at school so that people wouldn't realise who her father was. "I would always be Stella Martin at school. That was always a bit confusing for people," she recalled. "When I started college I tried to do it under a different name. I would never tell anyone. The discovery was always a bit painful – when you could tell people in the corridor were kind of looking at you differently. It would always be a bit, 'Oh God'."
Hearteningly, McCartney revealed that nearly 80% of people working at her company are women. Asked why comparatively few top fashion designers are female, she replied: "I think it was always that idea that the men in the boardroom chose the men in the design room, possibly, and maybe historically women felt comfortable with men dressing them. I think it's changed. I think women designing for women is really powerful and really important. "
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Does anyone not love – or at least like – Amy Poehler? Everything the actor, comedian, director, producer and writer touches turns to comedy gold and you can rest assured that it'll leave you feeling better about life. For many people, all it takes is one episode of Parks and Recreation or a chapter of her much-loved memoir Yes Please to make everything seem a little less bleak.
And right now, what with all the political uncertainty and devastation going on in the world, her comedic touch is exactly what we need. So thank god for new film The House, starring Poehler alongside fellow comedy genius Will Ferrell, which is bound to go down as one of the funniest films of the summer.
It follows parents Scott Johansen (Ferrell) and Kate Johansen (Poehler) who, after realising they've spent their beloved daughter Alex's college fund and that she'll no longer qualify for a bursary, decide to open a neighbourhood casino in their basement and convince all their friends to get involved. Yeah, it's farfetched and it's unclear why Alex can't just take out a student loan or save up the money herself, but it's undeniably hilarious and Poehler and Ferrell make one helluva convincing couple. We caught up with Poehler to talk about gambling, parenting and maintaining famous friendships.
Hi Amy, how did you and Will Ferrell manage to be such a convincing couple?
We share a similar comedy language. We kind of look like we could be married, in a weird way [laughs]. I think we have a chemistry from knowing each other for so long.
What was he like to work with?
He’s a blast. I think he’s the king – he’s so funny, he takes crazy risks and chances. He can play really, really big and goofy and then scary, low-status and dumb. He really can do a huge range, so it’s always awesome to work with him.
Did you ever compete over who was funnier?
At the end of every scene we would make the crew get in a circle and make them vote on who they thought won, because if there’s one thing I want this article to highlight it’s that comedy is about winning. It’s about beating the other person [laughs].
I’ve seen your film Sisters with Tina Fey, which is also great and, like The House, features a massive house party. Is there something that draws you to that kind of film?
No, in this case there’s a sense of ‘What are we gonna do?’ What is the limit one would go to for their kid? They’re put into the dark side and realise they’re very, very ill-equipped [laughs], because there’s nothing particularly cool or dangerous about them and they learn that very fast.
What do you think the film says about marriage and what it takes to make marriage a success?
It was important for us to play characters that were a team, because oftentimes we find the husband has this great plan and and the wife is like, 'Come on you guys, stop having fun!' We wanted to make sure they’re both idiots together because if there’s one thing I will fight for it’s for women to be just as idiotic as men. Their marriage is pretty strong because they’re delighted by each other and they know each other’s limitations which, in real life, is important in any good relationship.
Would you say The House is a feminist film, then?
I don’t know if I would say that. I don’t know. If you want to say that – I don’t know. I don’t know if I’d go as far as [to say that]. At the end of the day, I always attempt to try to make characters feel two-dimensional, three-dimensional, four-dimensional if it's sci-fi.
How does your real-life parenting style compare to your character’s?
Well, my kids are young so I don’t yet have to deal with any of the teenager stuff, so that’s kinda still up for grabs. I don’t know. They’re different. I don’t think there’s much in the film that feels too familiar yet. We’ll have to wait and see.
How do you think you’ll feel when your sons reach that age and are about to leave for university? Do you think you’ll feel sad about it?
I think I’ll feel exactly like my character. I really related to that feeling of wanting your kid always by your side and squishing them in a sandwich. There’s this thing when you’re a young parent and you feel like you’ve got a lot of living left to do and suddenly your kid is going away and you’re like, 'Hmm, what should the second half of my life be like?' I can imagine that happens to a lot of people. I think I’d be very similar – just trying to chain them up and hold them down and make sure they don’t leave.
In the film, Kate and Scott go to pretty extreme lengths in an attempt to give their daughter the best start in life. What’s the furthest you’d go to do the same for your kids?
Oh wow, having done this film, I would definitely not open a casino. There are way too many people involved and too many risks [laughs]. I don’t know – it’s interesting. Who knows, in 10, 20 years' time if people will be going to university as much. At least in the States, there’s this trend where people are getting tonnes of student loans, graduating, not knowing what they’re going to do, going to live back with their parents and owing a hundred thousand dollars, so I don’t know. But to answer your question, I would beg, borrow and steal.
What’s the biggest gamble you’ve ever made in your own life?
Trying to do this job, maybe, might be one. I took some risks when I was younger that I’m proud of and paid off.
What kind of risks?
I mean, just deciding to make this a career, moving to New York, just trying to make it in comedy however many years ago. But compared to other people’s risks – I mean, risks are very subjective. For some people it’s really easy for them to say hello to a stranger, but for some people it’s risky, while others don’t feel they’re being risky unless they jump out of a plane, so it’s all very subjective.
Have you done much gambling yourself?
A gambling addiction? [laughs] Yeah, we went to Las Vegas for this movie and it did prove my existing suspicion that I’m not the biggest gambler because I hate losing my money. It makes me crazy. I don’t know if it’s because I grew up with two public school teachers and we didn’t have a lot of money and the thought of just handing it over to some stranger in a shiny vest is too much to take.
You’re obviously known for your close relationship with Tina Fey – how do you maintain a genuine friendship in your industry?
We’re just like anyone else, we’re friends in work and in life and, you know, our friendship is just like your friendship with your best mate. It’s just lots of shared experience, mutual respect and basically laughing at the same things.
The House is in UK cinemas from 30th June.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Rome has been luring British tourists hungry for sun, spaghetti and ancient monuments for decades. Whether it's grabbing a gelato by the Spanish Steps à la Audrey in Roman Holiday, or living the high life of The Talented Mr Ripley, the old school, cinematic glamour of the Italian capital reels us in every time. But the Eternal City is changing – its antiquities have been restored but new laws on public eating mean you can no longer chow down on a slice of pizza as you wander around. Rome's mayor has even outlawed throwing coins in the Trevi Fountain. There goes our chance of a summer romance...
Now that Rome's typical tourist destinations are losing their lustre, more and more visitors are finding their own path. Navigating the gladiator re-enactments and selfie sticks can be tricky but stick with it – beyond the tourist traps, the city is now a vibrant hub of culture, food and music, worlds away from its storied past. It's enough to make you go all La Dolce Vita.
To help guide you around these less familiar areas, we’ve put together a list of 20 of the best ways to do Rome like a local. Click through to discover where to eat, drink, dance and see great art.
Generator Rome is leading the way in redefining luxury on a budget. Gone are the days when a great price meant bland, beige hallways and sleeping in a room the size of a shoebox. True, you won't find mini bars, travel-size toiletries or pillow mints here. What you will find, though, is a real bar packed with vintage furniture and great drinks deals; power showers in every room; a roof terrace with an amazing view over the city; and rooms starting at €40 a night. Although it is technically a hostel, there's not a booze cruise or rep in sight – think chic aperitivo evenings instead. What's more, most of the rooms are private (the largest dorm is only four beds) and are complete with ensuite bathrooms, boutique toiletries and designer furniture. With walls covered in murals from local artists, a café frequented by students discussing art history, and a super-cool bar, this is the perfect spot to kick off your trip in style.
In between the tourist-trap restaurants around the historic Pantheon, you can find one of the best meals in Rome – if you know where to look. Antica Trattoria da Pietro al Pantheon looks unremarkable from the outside but inside it's a different story. Barely pausing from his long conversations with the regulars, the owner will welcome you into his antique-stuffed restaurant and tempt you with dishes as he passes your table. They're all seasonal and utterly irresistible but you can't leave without trying a (huge) plate of homemade pasta, or the stuffed and fried courgette flowers. And don't be scared of the house wine, sold by the litre – it's delicious and only costs a few euros. What's Italian for 'bargain'?
The domination of the European high street by juggernauts like H&M and Zara can make it really difficult to pick up a unique outfit when shopping abroad. Luckily, at Pifebo you can find one-of-a-kind, pre-loved examples of true Italian style. The main store stocks an expertly curated range of sunglasses and fine Italian leather, and is home to an adorable Boston Terrier (the inspiration for Pifebo's logo). There is also a huge "kilo store", where vintage finds are sold by weight. Perfect for anyone wanting to stock up for summer and grab a bargain.
If you're a foodie but hate walking, we have the place for you. In a former canteen for Rome's railway workers there now stands a stunning, three-storey food market where you can find everything from arancini to newly baked bread. Homemade pasta is piled high with truffles at shockingly low prices, and you can even meet the man who grows the artichokes served in their salads. Or just take a seat at one of the elegant tables and tuck in to pizza and prosecco while you watch the world go by and try to decide what to have for dessert.
Il Mercato Centrale Roma Roma Termini, Via Giovanni Giolitti, 36, 00185 Rome, Italy +39 06 9293 9569
Order a drink overlooking the city
Even without the chi-chi location on top of a five-star hotel, Minerva Roof Garden is a cut above your local Spoons. From the terracotta tiled terrace, you can watch as the sun sets over Rome and the stars twinkle above the city. Despite its definitely glitzy atmosphere, the staff are more than welcoming, plying you with free snacks during aperitivo hour and bashing out classics on the bar's grand piano. If you're looking to raise a glass to something special while you're in Rome, you couldn't choose a better spot.
If you've only got a short time in Rome, or are just after the full Roman Holiday experience, you can't do better than a tour with Scooteroma. Jump on the back of one of their Vespas and you'll be transported on a totally unique tour of the city, tailored just for you and the sites you most want to see. It doesn't come cheap – usually around €200 per person – but in the four hours you'll spend zipping around Rome, you'll see more of the Eternal City than you thought possible. Once you've taken a left at the Colosseum and revved past the Vatican, you'll feel more at home here than Audrey ever did.
What the Flake 99 is to the UK, gelato is to Italy (somehow we feel they're getting the better deal here). You can find great ice cream on almost any street in Rome but for a true gelateria experience head to Fassi, which has been family-run since 1880 and still serves up some of the best scoops in the city. Take a break from the heat in the cool, marble shopfront and choose from dozens of flavours of fresh, handmade gelato. Certainly a cut above Mr. Whippy.
One thing that any Roman would want you to know is that Rome is mainly built on, well, Rome. There are so many archeological treasures hidden under the city that even building a basement can turn up a treasure trove. That's what happened when IMAX tried to build a cinema next to the Trevi Fountain – there turned out to be a perfectly preserved Roman villa, right where they wanted to put the projector. Undeterred, the Italian National Cinema Institute turned the site into a museum, adding a small cinema which shows the best in classic Italian and world cinema, totally free. Loved by locals, this is a great place to take a break from sightseeing but still experience something you'd never find outside Italy.
If you're after great pizza in Rome, don't look for it in a restaurant. Real Romans like their pizza on the go, from bakeries which have been serving up sheets of delicious dough for generations. Antico Forno Roscioli is always packed with locals picking up a slice for the road or sharing fresh foccacia at one of their tables. Nip in to refuel while you're seeing the sights, or stay a while to sample a few slices and meet some true Italians while you're at it.
Better known for its packed streets, Rome actually has some of Europe's most beautiful parks. To escape the city heat, most tourists end up in Villa Borghese, filled with selfie stick-sellers and walking tours – which is why most locals prefer Villa Doria Pamphilj. Just 10 minutes outside central Rome, this park has acres of green space, its own Renaissance villa and gorgeous places to walk and cycle. Pack a picnic and take a stroll through the formal gardens, or head off on your own to find the Roman ruins around the edge of the park.
Bright and early every Sunday morning, Romans flock to Porta Portese to browse vintage furniture, Murano lamps and antique embroideries. When we say early, we mean early: the market opens at 7am and is pretty much done by 1pm, when locals have headed to lunch at one of the nearby trattorias. But if you can get yourself up in time (perhaps with the help of an espresso or two), you're sure to be rewarded. This flea market is the largest in Rome and has a huge selection, from the utterly chic to cheap and cheerful. Porta Portese can be packed with bargain hunters so be prepared to haggle, and keep your valuables safe at all times. Maybe lay off the Saturday night prosecco, too – no one likes to haggle with a hangover.
Porta Portese Flea Market Piazza di Porta Portese, 00153 Rome, Italy
Sample aperitivo under the stars
Aperitivo is possibly the best Italian invention since the ice cream cone. From around 7pm-9pm, almost every bar in Rome has aperitivo hour, which sometimes includes drink offers but mostly is about free platters of delicious Italian nibbles. Romans use this time to get together over a few Negronis, unwind and indulge in a few pre-dinner treats. Necci Dal 1924 is one of the best places to get involved – nestled in the lovely Pigneto neighbourhood, the large outdoor garden is strung with fairy lights and a haven for hardworking Romans keen to chill out. Find a spot, grab a cocktail, and break bread with some locals.
Necci Dal 1924 Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 68, 00176 Rome, Italy +39 06 9760 1552
Hear the mafia make sweet music
In case you haven't heard (or seen The Godfather), organised crime was once very powerful in Italy. The mafia is now long gone, which is lucky for visitors to Rome – not just because there's less chance of inciting the wrath of a Don, but because of the Casa del Jazz. Now one of the best live jazz venues in Rome, this 1920s villa and park was once owned by mob boss Arturo Osio but was seized by the city of Rome in one of the country's biggest mafia takedowns. Today it hosts an ever-changing programme of concerts, screenings and festivals where you can relax and enjoy the benefits of organised crime, without the illegal activity.
Casa del Jazz Viale di Porta Ardeatina, 55, 00154 Rome, Italy +39 06 704731
Put some pepper in your pasta
Cacio e pepe is Rome's most famous pasta dish and possibly the world's best combination of cheese and carbs. We're huge fans of the dish at Refinery29 (you can even see us tucking into some in London here). In Rome, when you order cacio e pepe at Felice a Testaccio, they'll make it right at your table. They've been serving pasta for over 80 years, and are among the best in the city – but word is definitely out, so make sure to book ahead to avoid the crowds of locals vying for their lunchtime pasta.
Felice a Testaccio Via Mastro Giorgio, 29, 00153 Rome, Italy +39 06 574 6800
See what Rome's contemporary art scene is up to
Rome has been a hub of art and culture for millennia but, until recently, it wasn't known for art from this century. This has all changed since Maxxi opened its doors. A huge cultural campus just outside central Rome, this giant Zaha Hadid-designed building is a work of art in itself. Inside, exhibitions celebrate contemporary art and architecture, revealing a side of Rome's cultural life that those tourists who stick to B.C. cultural attractions never see.
Almost every café, bar and restaurant in Rome will tell you it's the oldest around, but Antico Caffè Greco has some serious history to back it up. Since opening in 1760, it's served espresso to Keats, Hans Christian Andersen, Goethe and Casanova (among others), and you can still find writers scribbling away in its art deco interior. The coffee here is expensive, admittedly, but it's among the best in the city. Enjoy with a piece of homemade tiramisu.
Antico Caffè Greco Via dei Condotti, 86, 00187 Rome, Italy +39 06 679 1700
Soak up the sun at the beach
If it feels like there are only tourists in Rome, that's probably because the locals are at the beach. Every weekend from June to September, modern Romans desert the Spanish Steps and take the metro to the capital's very own beach, Ostia. Beach culture in Italy is totally unique, with beach clubs owning the sand from the street to the sea. Prices vary hugely depending on the poshness of the club and the time of year but €10-15 will get you a lounger, umbrella and towel, plus extras like showers, bars and WiFi. Or take your towel to one of the few public beaches and soak up some rays the Italian way.
Holiday nightlife used to be so simple. Remember when all we wanted was a round of sambucas for under €5 and to find our way to the local strip? Now we're after something slightly more sophisticated, it can be difficult to find somewhere that will forgive our stumbling attempts to say "grazie" and isn't a total tourist trap. Luckily, there's Ai Tre Scalini – on any given night, a happy mix of locals and visitors spill out onto the streets, enjoying a glass of wine and delicious southern Italian comfort food. It's the perfect spot to experience Rome's local nightlife – without a bar crawl in sight.
Ai Tre Scalini Via Panisperna, 251, 00184 Rome, Italy +39 06 4890 7495
Peep through a keyhole and see the whole city
If you peep through this ordinary-looking keyhole, in an ordinary-looking door high on Rome's Aventine hill, you'll see one of the city's worst-kept secrets. The alignment of this particular doorway means that, with one glance through the keyhole, you can see the hidden garden of The Knights of Malta (the original crusaders who built this holy site), the roofline of Vatican City and the famous dome of St. Peter's Basilica. Part of the reason this view is "secret" is because it is so stunning, it really has to be seen to be believed.
There's so much more to Rome's art scene than museums and classical architecture. The Ostiense district has gone from disused industrial area to a living gallery, boasting work from some of the best street artists in Europe. Grab a gelato and set out down Via del Porto Fluviale where famous graffiti artist BLU has transformed a former barracks into a piece on immigration. Since his tagging of the entire building, refugees have made it their home. From there, wander to the Wall Of Fame on Via dei Magazzini Generali, where you can see the faces of artist JBRock's favourite celebrities, from Biggie Smalls to Frida Kahlo. Then head to Via del Commercio, where the remains of Rome's former gasworks form the backdrop to several amazing pieces of street art. Cameras at the ready.
Ostiense District Via Ostiense, Rome, Italy
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
The UK's first official Gay Pride Rally took place in July 1972, when around 1,000 people marched from Trafalgar Square to Hyde Park. Through the '80s and '90s, Pride events sprung up all over the country as LGBT people campaigned for the repeal of Section 28, demonstrated solidarity in the face of the AIDS crisis, and spearheaded the push for equal marriage. In recent years, some Pride events have been criticised for becoming too corporate, too frothy, and even too heteronormative. These days, Tesco sends a float to the Pride in London parade.
Photo: Photofusion/REX/Shutterstock.
But this doesn't mean we should write off our local Pride events as pointless. The LGBT rights movement has benefited white, able-bodied, cisgender males far more than anyone else – and the community is looking pretty disparate. Pride may be the one day of the year where LGBT people of any age, gender, colour, body type, class and political outlook actually come together. It's a reminder of how far we've come, but also of how much work we still need to do for less privileged members of the community. With this in mind, here's a guide to making the most of whichever Pride event(s) you attend in 2017.
Photo: Chris J Ratcliffe/Getty Images.
Pick a Pride that's properly inclusive.
UK Black Pride and Trans Pride Brighton are among the fantastic annual events that give visibility to underrepresented sections of the LGBT community. But other, less targeted Pride parties have a responsibility to create a space that's safe for absolutely everyone. "Pride events should welcome, embrace and celebrate all LGBT folk, not just some," Stonewall's Matt Horwood tells us. "Make sure your local Pride has all LGBT people in mind when planning its event. What’s accessibility like? Does it include LGBT PoC? Is there a space for those who don’t drink? And are the L, B and T communities represented?" Put simply: pick a Pride where it looks as though everyone will be able to enjoy themselves equally.
Photo: Paul Brown/REX/Shutterstock.
Remember that LGBT allies are just as welcome.
Loads of people go to Pride to support friends, family members and work colleagues; no one's going to ask you to present some kind of 'Honorary Gay' card when you arrive. Alice Beverton-Palmer, an ally who DJs at cult LGBT night Push the Button, has the following advice for fellow allies attending Pride: "You're a guest at someone else's – fabulous – party so behave as such. Clap, cheer, chat to people – the atmosphere is incredible. Soak it up and be wowed by the variety of floats – and the amazing pop acts who'll be performing. Whether it's nostalgic throwbacks the gays never deserted, or up-and-coming artists, the music is guaranteed to be on point. Oh, and if you do get to that point where you've had a few drinks, ladies... there will be tons of gorgeous men, but do not tell any of them it's 'a waste' that they're gay."
Think about the practicalities.
Yes, Pride is a party, but it's a party that's taking place outside in the middle of the notoriously fickle British summer. So bring layers: there's no point planning a flawless outfit if it's going to get ruined by rain, or you're too busy shivering to flaunt it. "Always have water with you – and a brolly is absolutely essential," says one of the UK's leading drag kings, Adam All. "And if you're going to a large Pride event, don't move too often between stages because they're further apart than you think and you'll likely just miss things. So make a plan according to what's on with plenty of wiggle room, and stick to it. Pace yourself because it's a long old day, and always have an eye on the nearest loo."
Photo: Julia Claxton/Barcroft Images.
Shades are also a Pride essential – not just to protect your eyes from the sun, but also to hide behind when you spot an ex you'd rather not reconnect with. On a related note, author and LGBT activist Juno Dawson points out that angel wings, a Pride outfit staple, are actually a great place to stash an emergency condom or dental dam.
Have fun, but remember why you’re there.
Obviously going to Pride should be a laugh. You might drink too much, overdo the body glitter, and end up taking a messy selfie with Sinitta after she's finished performing "So Macho" in a bikini on the main stage. (OK, maybe that last one's just me.) But anyway, there is always a political purpose to Pride and it's always worth keeping this in mind. "Pride is a celebration of equality," says model and DJ Munroe Bergdorf. "For example, this year's theme for Pride in London is 'Love Happens Here...'. So be the change you want to see and treat others as you wish to be treated."
Some Pride events are now ticketed and you'll probably have to register if you want to march, so always check the relevant website in advance. Stonewall has a very decent list of Pride events taking place all over the UK this summer here.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Another week, another accusation of workplace sexism that makes us want to rip off our bras and hurl them into the nearest open fire. It's no secret that schools and workplaces like to take offence at the way women and girls choose to clothe their bodies, but we have to admit to feeling exasperated every time we hear about it.
The latest case? A 22-year-old woman says she was sacked from her bar job after going to work braless, the Hull Daily Mail reported.
The woman, named as Kate Hannah on Facebook, posted an image of herself in a T-shirt and an explanation of what happened to the social media site.
"So I've just got home after being sacked from my job, for refusing to wear a bra," she wrote on Saturday 24th June, adding that her manager's brother had made an "inappropriate sexual remark" that left her feeling "uncomfortable, objectified and shocked that this had happened".
"Unfortunately [the manager] saw fit to deal with the situation by telling me that I'm not allowed into work in future unless I'm wearing a bra.
"This was said to me in front of three other staff members and customers, leaving me feeling body shamed and completely shocked that the blame was being put onto me that I had been sexually harassed at work."
The manager then allegedly called Kate "stupid, silly and over the top," when she revealed she was upset. "I am absolutely disgusted with the unprofessionalism and blatant lack of respect for my right as a woman to wear whatever makes me personally comfortable," the post continued.
"Nobody should EVER feel the need to hide themselves in order to stay away from unwanted sexual comments/behaviour. Feel so sad."
The post has received quite a response on Facebook, having been shared more than 500 times and garnering more than 1,200 reactions and some 400 comments at the time of writing.
The bar, the Bird and Beer in Beverley, East Yorkshire, denied the allegations. In a statement on its Facebook page, it said: "We can confirm that no employees have been dismissed from the company regarding these allegations.
"We have a duty of care to protect all of our employees from any discrimination or sexual harassment within the work place and we take any comments towards our employees very seriously and act upon them immediately in a professional manner. At this moment in time we will not be making any further comments."
Unfortunately, the bar didn't clarify whether or not it's looking into Kate's allegation of sexual harassment.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Update: Get excited! Ikea products are now officially available through Amazon, according to Real Simple. Some are even eligible for Amazon Prime, and you know what that means — speed-of-light delivery.
This story was originally published on June 15, 2017, at 7:30 a.m.
Ikea is a standby for a lot of people. Furniture on the cheap? It's almost too good to be true, and for a lot of people who don't live near one of the Swedish superstore's locations, it is. But that's about to change, big time.
House Beautiful reports that Ikea is planning to sell its products through other shopping destinations. And Reuters says that one of those choice sites is one you already probably shop: Amazon.
The furniture megastore has its own e-commerce services, however, partnering with a site like Amazon, which offers legendary free shipping for its Prime members, could bring Ikea's products to a whole new group of consumers. Even die-hard fans of the brand could perceivably shop online, avoiding the winding, labyrinth-like stores and fill up a virtual cart at their Ikea-furnished homes. House Beautiful adds that exorbitantly high shipping costs and a limited selection of products are limiting Ikea's own e-comm platform. Considering that furniture is pretty big, it can't cost just a few bucks to ship something like a couch or dining room table, especially when the parts required to assemble it all come in more than one box.
Ikea didn't announce exactly what outlets it would partner with for this foray into friendly shopping, however. Instead, an executive explained that there's still plenty to look at before the brand can announce anything concrete.
"I leave unsaid on which [platforms]," Inter Ikea Group Chief Executive Torbjorn Loof told Reuters. "But we will test and pilot, to see 'what does this mean, what does digital shopping look like in future? We have one great advantage and that is that we design, produce, and distribute our own unique range."
This would be the very first time that Ikea's experimented with selling through channels outside of its own operations. Additionally, Reuters reports that Ikea is planning to open smaller stores in different metropolitan areas to provide access to more customers.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Here's another reason to love science: researchers at the University of Oxford and the University of Coventry recently published a study that claims having sex more often could actually make you smarter.
Just over half of the respondents (37) said that they have sex weekly, 26 said they have sex monthly, and 10 said they never have sex. Those who have sex most often scored higher on a test of cognitive abilities than the others, with better "verbal fluency" (aka being able to name the most words or animals that started with the letter F in one minute.)
Those who had more sex also did better on visual tests, though there wasn't a big difference for memory, language, or attentiveness.
The study researchers aren't sure exactly why having more sex is linked to better verbal and visual abilities, but theorise that it might have something to do with hormones such as dopamine or oxytocin that are released into the brain during sex.
It could also be that having sex more often correlates to a more active life overall, which has been connected to better brain function in previous research.
Remember, though, that this is a small study. While the results of only 73 people can't definitely say that having sex at least once a week makes you smarter — what can it hurt?
At the very least, more frequent sex can give you and your partner more time to connect. And at the most, it just might bolster your brain power.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
A young victim of the Grenfell Tower fire will live on in the name of a character in an upcoming trilogy by Philip Pullman, following a fundraising campaign by authors.
The His Dark Materials author invited people to bid for the naming as part of the Authors for Grenfell Tower auction, raising money for the British Red Cross' relief fund for those affected by the tragedy.
One bidder was former teacher James Clement, who taught 16-year-old Nur Huda el-Wahabi, believed to have died in the fire along with her family, parents Abdul Aziz and Fouzia, and siblings Yasin, 21, and Mehdi, 8.
Clement initially bid £1,500 to have the character in the second book of the forthcoming series, The Book of Dust, named after Nur Huda and, instead of making their own separate bids, well-wishers and authors are putting money behind his attempt to immortalise his former pupil. Bidding on Pullman's lot is still underway but it looks increasingly likely that Clement will win, as no rival bids have yet been made.
"I expect this will go for a lot more (and I hope it does), but here goes: £1500. If this is still the leading bid on Tuesday, I'd like to call the character Nur Huda el-Wahabi," Clement wrote in a moving post alongside his bid.
"The real Nur Huda was an ex-pupil of mine who lived in Grenfell Tower and didn’t make it out of the building that night. A life that was so full of promise has been cut short in the most terrible way. As well as raising some money, this would mean her name would live on. Plus Nur Huda is a pretty cool name for a character."
Evidently moved by Clement's post, other bidders and authors quickly began donating money to his offer. One Day author David Nicholls and Patrick Ness, author of A Monster Calls, have backed the bid, along with Mark Haddon, author of The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time and TV presenter Richard Osman, who both added £1,000.
Bidding on the lot had surpassed £17,000 at the time of writing and it seems certain to continue growing before it closes at 8pm on Tuesday (27th). Other items being auctioned for the cause include afternoon tea with David Walliams, a signed Stanley Tucci cookbook, a photoshoot with photographer Rankin and signed copies of Lauren Graham's memoir.
"This book will follow the first part of The Book of Dust, La Belle Sauvage, which will be published in October this year," Pullman wrote on the lot description page. "The second part (not yet titled) will follow next year. The right to name a character doesn’t guarantee that he or she will be good, bad, beautiful or otherwise, but it will be a speaking role with a part to play in the plot."
Good, bad, beautiful or otherwise, it's a pretty cool way to be remembered.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Charlotte York taught us a lot over the years on Sex and the City. Like that women can propose just as easily as men, and that you can expect the post-breakup heartache to last half as long as the relationship. Oh, and how shitting your pants in front of all your friends in Mexico isn't the worst thing that could happen in the world. Perhaps our favourite, though, is that even your hair can hurt when you have a hangover.
Speaking of hair, hers was always impeccably polished and expensive-looking — that's the Park Avenue aesthetic, after all. It was long, highlighted, and just as full as the bank accounts of the men her character so often dated. But in a recent interview, actress Kristin Davis shared that achieving that look wasn't always easy — and it only became more difficult after SATC wrapped.
"My hair just was not what it used to be," Davis told WWD. "It was very fine, like it had gone away, there just was hardly any hair there. [It] was always very difficult hair, which no one believes when I tell them — it’s always been not quite that easy, but because I had a lot of hair the professionals could help me make it look nice. It’s not like I woke up and I had Charlotte hair."
A post shared by iamkristindavis (@iamkristindavis) on
When Davis realised she was shedding more than the normal 100 strands per day, she turned to her hairstylist Luke O'Connor for help. He recommended Volaire, and after trying the line, she signed on to be the face of the brand. "Mostly, I wanted it for myself," she said.
And as we so clearly learned from the hit TV show, isn't that the only reason to do any beauty treatment — or anything — ever?
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Ivanka Trump's role in her father's political career has been a point of confusion since he started his campaign, and especially since he took office. Is she a supportive first daughter? Is she taking over the role of first lady? Or is she a political adviser, like her husband?
When it was announced she would work in the White House as an unpaid "special assistant" to the president, it seemed the answer was the latter. However, in an interview with Fox & Friends that aired Monday morning, she said she tries to "stay out of politics."
She added, "I don't profess to be a political savant, so I leave the politics to other people and really lean into the issues that I care deeply about."
First of all, no one with an office in the White House can rightfully claim they "stay out of politics." If you work for the president of the United States in an advisory role, your job is inevitably politics.
By claiming she's not political, Ivanka is downplaying her involvement in the Trump administration. She's officially working for her dad, and claiming to not be involved in politics seems to be a way to avoid the backlash when his harmful policies (such as banning immigrants and refugees from majority Muslim countries) are criticised.
Although she's careful not to give clear answers on what policies she's working on or advising the president on, just last week Ivanka was meeting with key Republicans in Congress about paid leave.
In the same Fox & Friends interview she even said she advises the president on policy. While saying she avoids topics she's against, she said, "I instead like to focus on areas where I can add positive value, where I can contribute to the agenda," listing policies on workforce development and helping veterans as examples.
So, she wants to stay out of politics, while advising the president on policy?
It's true that first ladies tend to steer clear of policy, with the exception of Hillary Clinton, who was an adviser to President Clinton and helped shape healthcare policy.
"Naturally, there are areas where there's disagreement; we're two different human beings," she told Fox & Friends on Monday.
Presidents and first ladies are always two different people with two different minds. But, they don't normally disagree on such important issues (like whether or not climate change is a "hoax"). Because Ivanka claims to stray from the administration's thinking on multiple issues — and was hired as an official White House employee — playing the "I'm not a politician" card is more strategic than it would be coming from other women filling the first lady role.
If avoiding real policy positions and always supporting her father is the way Ivanka will maintain her status as a "moderating force" for President Trump, that makes her more of a cheerleader than a political adviser. If Ivanka is helping shape the country’s policies, she needs to decide whether she's political or not. And if she's going to fully back up the president, as she continues to do publicly, she can't sidestep the controversial issues. After all, it’s hard to be half political when you have an office in the White House.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
If there’s anything we know for sure, Game Of Thrones season 7 is sure to be quite the spectacle when it finally premieres on July 16. The newly released #WinterIsHere trailer promises bigger battles, more fire, and larger dragons than ever before. To get all of these jaw-dropping visual displays, you know what the Thrones team needs to do? Spend a whole lot of money.
To appreciate all the pricey work that’s gone into the upcoming season 7, we looked back on Game Of Thrones ’ most expensive episodes to date. The previous instalments include all the unexpected deaths, expansive battles, and shocking explosions we’ve come to expect from the Westerosi fantasy series. Scroll through the gallery to find out which Thrones episodes cost the most coin. We bet some of the episodes will surprise you.
And enjoy the sticker shock now, because we’re sure by the time season 7 wraps, all of these episodes are going to look like they cost chump change.
Season 5, Episode 10: "Mother’s Mercy"
Other episodes of Game Of Thrones may be more dazzlinglt dragon-heavy, but the season 5 finale boasts the most expensive death scene in the entire series. And not a single fire-breathing creature was even involved.
Out of 100 death scenes, Arya Stark's assassination of Kings Guard member and paedophile Meryn Trant ended up being the priciest, creators Dan Weiss and David Benioff confirmed during a SXSW 2017 panel. Although there were no flying dragons, murderous White Walkers, or wildfire-aided explosions, Arya's (Maisie Williams) mode of murder still ended up being pretty expensive. " She couldn’t really poke out his eyes, " Benioff explained in March. That means a lot of special effects, prosthetics, and choreography were likely needed to pull the scene off.
It’s widely believed the showdown between Jon Snow (Kit Harington) and Ramsay Bolton (Iwan Rheon) ranks as Game Of Thrones ’ most expensive episode to date. But, because HBO isn’t in the practice of making production budgets public knowledge, we’re only able to look at the evidence to speculate. And, wow, is there a lot of evidence.
The budget for the entire Thrones season was £80 million for 10 hours, so that essentially boils down to £8 million per episode. But, it’s believed money was pulled from the other nine instalments to pump up " Bastards. " That makes sense, as the penultimate episode necessitated 600 crew members, 500 extras, 70 horses, and 4 entire cameras, all over 25 days of shooting, Entertainment Weekly reports.
" It’s definitely the biggest [action sequence yet], " writer-producer Bryan Cogman told EW in March 2016. " We’ve always wanted to get to a place — story-wise and budget-wise and time-wise and resource-wise — where we would be able to do a proper battle, with one army on one side, one army on another side. "
If this was the first time Benioff and Weiss had the financial resources to go this big, it would stand to reason " Battle Of The Bastards " is the most expensive Thrones hour yet.
Season 2, Episode 9, "Blackwater"
Before “BOB” was even a blip on Benioff and Weiss’ radar, season 2 penultimate instalment " Blackwater " was heralded as the most expensive showing of Thrones.
The HBO fantasy epic’s original great big battle cost £6.5 million, after the creators begged the network for an extra £1.6 million for filming. " For budgetary reasons, we came very, very close to having all the action take place off-screen, the way plays have handled battle scenes for a few thousand years, " Benioff revealed to EW in April 2014. That means the entire wildfire-filled spectacle was this close to being left out of the series in favour of some basic conversation in the Red Keep. Thank the Seven HBO got a little bit looser with the purse strings.
Interestingly, this means every single episode of season 6, with its £8 million per-instalment budget, was likely more expensive than season 2’s largest visual extravaganza.
Season 5, Episode 8, "Hardhome"
" Hardhome " is unlike any other season’s episode 8, and feels much more like the typically cinematic penultimate instalments. The episode finds Jon Snow (Harington) attempting to bring the Wildlings hiding out in the eponymous settlement down below the wall to protect them from the White Walkers. Unfortunately, the White Walkers overtake Hardhome at this exact moment, killing thousands and turning them into wights. It’s creepy to say the least.
As with most vast Thrones episodes, the exact budget for the episode is a bit of a mystery. But the details surrounding " Hardhome " prove just how expensive it was to make, as Harington told Entertainment Weekly in May 2015, " It was three to four weeks of shooting for a sequence that should add up to [more than] 20 minutes. We shot less than a minute a day! It’s so CGI-heavy it’s unlike anything I’ve ever done on Thrones. "
If that doesn’t already sound pricey, know Harington shot each of his fight sequences three times — one against a man in a green screen suit, once against a man made up to look dead, and once against nothing but air — just to give the team a variety of options.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
The young woman twiddled her Edinburgh Festival staff lanyard and gave a loud, frustrated sigh. She was no more than 21, we were three-quarters into the August arts festival that colonises Scotland’s capital annually, and I could tell she’d had enough of unreasonable requests. Except I hadn’t made one.
Arriving to see a play based on Jurassic Park (if you don’t know the Edinburgh Festival, this is towards the normal end of the programme), I’d discovered the venue was up five flights of stairs. It happens. There are over 10,000 performers sprawling across the capital and it’s impossible to research every venue when you’re packing in five shows a day. No biggie, I just asked if there was a lift.
"There is, but I’ll have to ask if you can use it," the woman replied, before speaking into her walkie-talkie. "Wait here. I’ve called for the manager," she added.
Time ticked towards curtain up, and my friends were looking nervous.
"Can I just go in and use the lift myself?" I said hopefully.
The girl scowled at me.
I told my friends to go. My husband waited with me.
"Is anyone actually coming?" I asked the girl again.
"The disabled entrance opens directly onto the stage," she replied as if in answer.
With a minute 'til the show started, I sent my husband running up the stairs to catch it. My door guard was still huffing and puffing. I knew what was coming. I’d had this before. Her whole reaction had been as if I were asking for something outrageous. With a triumphant look, she said, "You’ve missed the show. No late admittance."
"I’d still like to speak to the manager," I said, feeling myself blush. Alone on the street, I didn’t feel so confident asking for my rights.
She gave me a long look up and down. I’m 35. I was wearing Zara denim cut-offs and a Marc Jacobs jumper (sale bargain). My hair is highlighted, and I’d blow-dried it. I wasn’t wearing much makeup but my nails were gel manicured. She thought I was a diva. A Mariah Carey wannabe who didn’t do stairs. Some kind of blagger. She raised an eyebrow and with pointed emphasis said, "Can I ask exactly what is wrong with you?"
And I felt sorry for her. "I have a degenerative connective tissue disorder that, among other things, means I injure and dislocate easily, and my mobility is compromised. I find stairs very difficult."
A few weeks ago, a barman refused to give me a key for the disabled toilet unless I produced medical proof in front of a packed pub. Seriously, who thinks having a go in an accessible toilet is a winning scam?
The moment the word 'degenerative' came out of my mouth, her face fell. She was mortified. She’d made a wrong assumption about me. She was young, she didn’t know better. It’s possible she’d never met anyone like me. Or more likely she had, and never realised. I am one of the 11 million people in the UK estimated to be living with a limiting long-term illness, impairment or disability. There are no statistics on how many of those 11 million have an invisible condition – the term used to describe a wide spectrum of hidden disabilities or challenges that are primarily neurological in nature. But based on similar data studies carried out in the US, we could estimate that 74% of those who live with severe disability do not use either a wheelchair, a walking stick or a cane. In other words, they, like me, often don’t have a visual "tell" that they are disabled. And that is at odds with what many people think someone with a disability looks like.
The Edinburgh Festival worker wasn’t the first to treat me as if I were trying to cheat the system. It happens all the time. Just a few weeks ago, a barman refused to give me a key for the disabled toilet unless I produced medical proof and history in front of a packed pub. (Seriously, who thinks blagging a ride in a lift and having a go in an accessible toilet is a winning scam?) People may think they’re doing a good thing – protecting services for those who they believe truly are disabled – but it’s time for greater awareness. It’s humiliating to have to share personal information just so you can pee. It marks you out as 'other'. People look at you differently. You quickly become someone to pity, when all you wanted was a glass of wine and a whizz. Able-bodied people aren’t required to give intimate details about their health in front of strangers. Why should I have to justify my need to use a disabled bathroom or the lift? If someone has gone to the bother of queuing at a bar to ask for a disabled toilet key, as opposed to just nipping downstairs to the main toilets, chances are there’s a reason. You shouldn’t be made to feel as if you’re taking the piss when you’re simply trying to go for one.
Newsflash: disabled people aren’t some Dickensian throwback stereotype. We’re clean, we take pride in our appearance, we like going out for a drink and a laugh.
As disability cuts are rolled out, and politicians talk in the rhetoric of "strivers" and "skivers", there’s an increasing sense that those with disabilities are only ever a drain on society. In 2015, an open letter from Sam Cleasby to a woman who tutted at her using a disabled toilet went viral. Sam is a glamorous 33-year-old who suffers from the invisible condition ulcerative colitis and wears a j-pouch bag that collects faecal matter. In the same year, Corinna Skorpenske ’s online response to this note left on her car went viral: "You should be ashamed!! When you take a handicap spot an actual disabled person suffers!" Corinna was with her 16-year-old daughter, who has the invisible but debilitating and painful condition lupus, which severely restricts her mobility. This was the third anonymous note Corinna had received.
A post shared by TheAngelaClarke (@theangelaclarke) on
Anyone with an invisible condition will recognise this attitude all too well. The reason the Edinburgh Festival worker couldn’t get her head round me being disabled is the same reason why people doubted Sam Cleasby, Corinna Skorpenske’s daughter and countless other sufferers of invisible conditions across the country. People expect those who are disabled to look like victims. Newsflash: disabled people aren’t some Dickensian throwback stereotype. We’re clean, we take pride in our appearance, we also like going out for a drink and a laugh. We have careers, deadlines, lives, loves, and family. We look just like you. Living with an invisible disability throws up enough challenges; don’t let your attitude be one of them.
Angela Clarke's new book Trust Me is out now. Get your copy here.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
In the competitive world of spiritual seekers – I kid, but only a little – “sweat lodge” has fast replaced “ayahuasca” at the top of this summer’s most-frequently-overheard-in-the-yoga-studio-changing-room list. (Other notable highlights include: “Does this crystal make me look fat?”)
But what is a sweat lodge anyway?
Let’s start with what it’s not: a sauna. This is a common misconception, born of the fact that in both you enter a sealed space in which rocks are used to generate heat, with added water creating steam. That is, however, where the similarities end.
Now, "sweat lodge" simply describes a structure – typically a dome-shaped hut made from natural materials. What people are referring to when they talk about a sweat lodge is what goes on inside: the ceremony, or sweat.
The ceremony is a religious and spiritual purification of the body, mind and soul. It is performed under the supervision of a leader, and intended for prayer and healing. It is ancient, sacred, and deeply revered among the cultures in which it is traditionally practised. Every aspect of a ceremony – from the construction of the lodge to the prayers offered – is imbued with deeply spiritual symbolism. It is not simply a "shvitz".
Native American men with a Crow village sweat lodge in Montana, undated.Photo: Bettmann/Getty Images.
Sweat lodges are most commonly associated with Native America – and indeed a large proportion of the ones found in the USA and Europe follow this lineage – however, ritual sweats have been part of our lives for thousands of years, with examples found across continents and cultures, from Icelandic saunas to Turkish hammams and Japanese onsens.
In the North American Indian tradition, the lodge is built using willow bark that is placed in the ground in a circular shape and then covered with blankets. The heat inside is generated by hot basalt stones that are placed in the centre and doused with water and medicinal herbs. “The spirits of all of our ancestors are believed to dwell in the stones,” explains Roland Torikian, a Maya healer who runs sweat lodge ceremonies in Kent. “Roused by the heat of the fire, they proceed out of the stone when water is sprinkled on them. Emerging and mingling with the steam they enter the body… driving out everything that inflicts pain. Before the ancestor spirits return to the stone, they impart some of their nature to the body. That is why one feels so well after having been in a temescal.”
Indeed, devotees of sweat lodge ceremonies evangelise about the mental clarity, physical energy and spiritual revitalisation they bring. Serena, a 35-year-old Oscar-winning film producer, has twice attended The Sweat Lodge in Oxfordshire. “I found the whole process very interesting,” she says. “It is cathartic sweating and you're in beautiful countryside with kind, nice people, and the heat definitely sends your mind to a higher place.” Aaron, a 33-year-old music producer and sound healer, attends a ceremony with Healing The Land once a month, on average. “Afterwards I feel energetic, cleansed and detoxed,” he explains. “It creates more space in my mind – like things have been removed. I feel meditative, connected and calm.”
Photo via Healing the Land Project.
Each ceremony generally involves a maximum of 25 people in the lodge. Participants – who despite rumours suggesting otherwise, tend to be clothed, albeit lightly – enter the structure in a clockwise direction and sit in a circle on the ground. The stones are then brought in and the ‘door’ closed by the leader.
“An atmosphere is created which is often referred to as ‘being in the womb of Mother Earth’,’’ explains The Sweat Lodge Community. “It is a place of safety, giving, sharing, receiving, releasing, cleansing, healing, caring, nurturing and creativity. Done with ceremony and ritual, it becomes a place where we connect with ourselves, each other and Mother Earth. Through this contact we come to a better understanding of our place in the Universe, our relationship to all things.”
A sweat lasts around five hours, with the ceremony divided into four sessions – called rounds – each of which lasts between 20 and 45 minutes. Participants are free to leave at any time, however they are encouraged to remain through discomfort (as opposed to feeling seriously unwell). What helps you remain through the discomfort and intense heat? “Letting go,” says Aaron. “Letting thoughts go, letting concepts go. It’s not really the heat that gets you in the heat; it’s your own heavy thoughts about yourself, your lack of self-belief. But also, if it gets really hot you can just lie down on the floor.” In between rounds everyone may exit the lodge if they want, and ideally there is a freezing cold body (or bucket) of water somewhere nearby.
The ceremonies are used to cleanse, heal, give thanks, celebrate, mourn, seek wisdom and counsel, or elicit visions.‘’I go to reconnect with myself, and with the Earth and nature itself,” Aaron explains. “Because it’s so dark in there and the heat activates your brain a little, you definitely see things. I’ve connected with other places and had visions – the heat brings a lot of focus in, and you can visualise your thoughts.”
For Serena, the sweat lodge completely changed her view of ‘spirituality’. “The people running it were not what I imagined spiritual people to be like – they were sort-of cockney geezers but with names like 'Eagle Flies With Wings' – so it challenged my perceptions,” she explains. “You have to fully engage with it, though,” she says, “at times it felt a bit farcical, as if it were rife for a BBC3 comedy.”
Indeed, it’s pretty easy to make fun of the growing interest in sweat lodges, much as it is ayahuasca, the tech billionaire’s drug of choice. However, if the events of the past year or so have shown us anything, it’s that the world we live in is seriously screwed up. And as far as I can tell, doing anything that helps individuals connect with both themselves and others is a good thing.
If – and it’s a big if – it’s done right.
James Arthur Ray.
In 2009, three people died and 18 were hospitalised after attending a ceremony in Arizona held by the self-help author and self-styled guru James Arthur Ray. The reports from the survivors are harrowing. Ray, a ‘plastic shaman’ with no official training, allegedly refused to let anyone leave the lodge (which was itself both built incorrectly and severely overcrowded) even when they begged, and began to vomit and pass out.
This event, however, was a relative anomaly, and a ceremony conducted under safe conditions should pose no serious risks for most people. Any state in which the body is tested to extreme limits has its dangers, so an experienced leader (with an apprenticeship of four to eight years) is paramount. They must fully understand not only the spiritual significance of the tradition, but also the physical and mental safety protocols.
Thinking of trying it? Simply heed with caution. If you’re pregnant or have a pre-existing health condition (such as high blood pressure or epilepsy), then give it a miss altogether. Otherwise be sure to do your research, and find a trusted ceremony with an experienced leader with whom you feel comfortable. Remember that we all respond differently to heat at different times in our lives, so listen carefully to your body. And finally, be prepared to hate it, like 25-year-old chef Tom. “You couldn’t pay me to go back,” he says. “Ever again.”
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Slip dresses have become a wardrobe essential over the past few years, the '90s and '00s staple having had a contemporary refresh. Tartan and lace was worn by everyone from Gwen Stefani to Courtney Love back in the riot grrrl days, while Jennifer Aniston made a great case for mules and a simple slip in the early 2000s. Now, the oh-so-easy dress is taking our wardrobes seamlessly from a wrapped-up winter (worn over roll necks and tights) to the height of summer.
For SS17, designers rolled out slips of all lengths, fabrics and prints, too. Teatum Jones paired lilac floral dresses with matching socks, Givenchy gave us agate-printed slips, and Ottolinger's silk hems were slashed and shredded. Each x Other's were sky blue and floor-length, while Gypsy Sport styled theirs with one strap draped over sweaters. David Koma offered a sporty take in ice white, while Topshop Unique's thigh split encouraged us to go higher.
The most basic of shapes, the slip dress is the ultimate throw-it-on-and-go for summer days and evenings. Click through to see our pick of the bunch.
We'll be wearing this to every wedding this summer.
Topshop Ruche Slip Dress by Boutique, £90, available at Topshop
The brand's trademark slashed fabric goes girly.
Marques'Almeida Floral Lace Ruffle Dress, £394, available at Farfetch
Don't be frightened of leopard print – pair with Converse for Sundays in the park.
Equipment Animal Print Dress, £213, available at Farfetch
Check, lace and a hanky hem? The '90s reign supreme.
Zara Check Camisole Dress, £29.99, available at Zara
This print screams summer.
Reemami Mountain Print Slip Dress, £866, available at Farfetch
The classic slip gets a 2017 update with side eyelets.
ASOS Curve Cami Dress with Eyelet Detail, £25, available at ASOS
Ditsy florals are here to stay, and this mini will see you through any number of holidays.
Mango Strap Flowy Dress, £19.99, available at Mango
We've had our eye on this satin piece from Attico for a while. Look at the palm tree!
Attico Caroline Palm Tree Slip Dress, £371, available at Farfetch
If sports luxe is your thing, this Fila dress looks as good with fresh kicks as some heels.
Fila Festival Grey Striped Slip Dress, £40, available at Urban Outfitters
This Acler dress is almost too pretty to wear but we're going to, layered over a long-sleeved top come colder climes, and on balmy evenings now.
Acler Harrow Draped Camisole Dress, £294, available at Moda Operandi
We like the nautical feel of this slip from Monki.
Summer is here, and we're more than ready to leave the safety of our couch and Netflix queue behind. We're going out into the balmier evenings to watch films in totally new, weird and wonderful locations. From lidos to boats, drive-ins to palaces, we've found the best places to snuggle up with a great movie and a bucket of popcorn this summer.
Click through to see our picks.
Rooftop Film Club
Rooftop Film Club does exactly what it says on the tin, showing iconic films on a selection of London's finest rooftops. Grab a deckchair, plug in your wireless headphones and check out both the spectacular view of the capital and the movie.
If you're a film buff you'll already know about this year's unmissable Rooftop Film Club events. Including Refinery29's very first IRL Friday Film Club screening of Lost In Translation later this week! Rooftop Film Club will also be the first rooftop cinema in the world to screen a 3D film, kicking off with Gravity.
If you've ever dreamed of going steady with Danny Zuko (let's be honest, who hasn't), your 1950s fantasy may be about to come true. Drive-in cinemas are back, and this time they're in Kent! Choose your movie, drive up to the screen, tune your car radio to their frequency and your wheels will become a private movie palace. From where you can order hot dogs, burgers and nachos, by the way. Grab your bobby socks and leather jacket, we'll see you at the drive-in, daddy-o.
Moonlight Cinema The Hop Farm, Paddock Wood, Kent, TN12 6PY 03330 064608
Nomad Cinema @ Grosvenor Film Festival
Over the past seven years, Nomad has built a reputation as possibly London's finest pop-up cinema. Not only are you guaranteed a great film but also activities, goodie bags and, most importantly, some of the most iconic locations in the capital. This summer's programme lives up to expectations, especially Nomad's collaboration with Grosvenor Film Festival. From 3rd-23rd July, the historic square will play host to current hits, classic films and even kids' screenings, and will be decked out to match the theme of each film. The ticket price includes a drink to get you in the mood – if that's not enough to get you to the box office, all profits from the festival are being donated to The Sustainability Institute in South Africa. Kick back and give back, all at the same time.
Nomad Cinema Grosvenor Square, Mayfair, London W1K
Backyard Cinema
What started as a homemade movie screen and a few beanbags in the founder's back garden has grown into one of London's best alternative cinemas. Backyard Cinema has set up shop everywhere from markets to churches, staging immersive movie experiences as well as straight-up screenings. Until the end of May you can see a series of Tarantino classics, and Tarantino-inspired favourites, at the 'Last Chapel' location in Elephant & Castle.
The crème de la crème of travelling outdoor screens, Luna Cinema has aimed a projector at some of the most iconic buildings in Britain. From Westminster Abbey to Blenheim Palace to the Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh, they're adept at turning great architecture into the perfect cinema setting, and this year's programme is no exception. Choose from Jaws at Brockwell Lido, Pride & Prejudice at Chatsworth House, the original location for the film, or, if you're a Harry Potter fan, vote for which film in the series you want to watch at the magnificent Alnwick Castle (aka Hogwarts). They'll even be taking over the most quintessentially British venue possible, Ascot Racecourse. Get your tickets while you can!
The Rex is a cinema like no other – at least, no other this century. The Rex opened in 1938 and, after a few decades as a bingo hall and having survived several demolition orders, today shows films in the glamorous style of pre-war Britain. Here you can sink into a plush velvet chair and watch the latest and greatest films on a gold filigree screen while sipping on a cold glass of wine. If you're a vintage lover, or just want to experience a cinema without the popcorn and hot dogs (seriously), this is the place for you.
For most of the year, Somerset House is (just) one of the greatest art institutions in London, but every summer it also becomes one of the capital's prettiest cinemas. In collaboration with Film4, the central courtyard is transformed into a screening space, neoclassical facade and all. Arrive early in the evening with a picnic (or grab a bite from one of the many food stalls) and catch a film-inspired DJ set. Then once the sun goes down, settle in for an evening of great cinema under the stars.
For the last decade, Secret Cinema has been at the very top of the immersive cinema game. They've donned purple lobby boy outfits and welcomed guests to their very own version of Wes Anderson's Grand Budapest Hotel. They've set up a prison break, complete with barbed wire, prison uniforms and guards for a special screening of The Shawshank Redemption. They even staged a full zombie apocalypse as a prelude to a screening of 28 Days Later. At Secret Cinema, you don't just see the films, you live them.
Croydon, for so long an up-and-coming hipster hotspot, has definitely up and come. It has its own Boxpark, a vintage video games arcade and now a rooftop cinema on top of a former car park. Lost Format Society's summer 2017 programme spans Charlie Chaplin classics, Wes Anderson arthouse favourites and blockbusters like La La Land. Before and after the film you can chill out on the heated, covered terrace and chow down on some freshly grilled grub.
Lost Format Society Top Deck Centrale Car Park, Centrale Shopping Centre, Tamworth Road, Croydon CR0 1XW
The Vintage Mobile Cinema
The Vintage Mobile Cinema is not exactly a multiplex – it only has one projector, two seats to a row and no popcorn machine. What it does have, however, is an engine, four wheels, and a gearbox. Did we mention it's a vintage 1960s moving cinema which was specially made by the government? Did we also mention that the car part of it is called Audrey? Amazing. You can find Audrey touring the country this summer showing a variety of short and feature-length films. Don't forget to say hello.
East End landmark The Town Hall Hotel was, before its transformation into luxury accommodation, one of the most sought-after film sets in London. This summer, it screens three of the films produced inside its walls – Atonement, Snatch, and Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels – in its perfectly preserved 1930s council chamber. If you feel like going full East End, you can watch Guy Ritchie's greatest work with a pie and jellied eel from the iconic F. Cooke or, if you're up for something a little more refined, you can sip on an afternoon tea-inspired cocktail while watching Atonement. Either way, you'll get to watch some of the best British films in an utterly British location.
Town Hall Classics Town Hall Hotel & Apartments, 8 Patriot Square, London E2 9NF 020 7871 0460
Brighton's Big Screen
This is officially Britain's best (possibly only) place to watch a film beside the seaside. Set up right on the beach, next to Brighton's famous pier, this giant screen shows everything from blockbusters and classic films to live sporting events. For just £3 you can claim your very own patch of pebbles or, if you're feeling fancy, splash out on a double bed complete with pillows and duvet, and snuggle up under the stars.
The latest breakthrough in outdoor cinema, Movies on the River is turning the Thames into our newest, rather wet, cinema venue. A collaboration between Time Out and City Cruises, every night a cruiser will set sail from Tower Pier and glide past the most iconic riverside landmarks. Once the sun sets, the screening will begin and guests can take a seat under the stars to enjoy both a great movie and London's skyline. With the likes of Clueless and Dirty Dancing on the bill, you might just be able to keep your eyes on the screen.
Movies On The River Tower Millennium Pier, Lower Thames St. London, EC3N 4DT
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
The true number of people killed in the Grenfell Tower fire could have been covered up to prevent rioting, Labour MP David Lammy has suggested.
The number of people officially reported to have died or as missing is 79 but Lammy, MP for Tottenham, said that while he had “no idea” if the number was being downplayed, he was “sympathetic” to the theory. At present, just 18 of the victims have been formally identified, with 61 more missing and presumed dead.
"What people say is that if you put the numbers out early, there could be civil unrest. That's what they say," he told BBC2’s Newsnight. "I am sympathetic to it, I am going to walk alongside those people."
When asked whether he thought the authorities were deliberately obscuring the death toll, Lammy, who was friends with 24-year-old victim Khadija Saye, said: "I wasn't there, but people on the ground are saying they saw more [people jump from towers] than is being suggested," reported the Mirror. "And so what people say is that in two, three weeks' time, if you start to reveal the numbers, things have moved on."
"In one flat alone, people say there were up to 40 people gathering, because they gathered in the flat, it was Ramadan," he continued.
Lammy said he had spoken to survivors of the tragedy, many of whom believed a substantially higher number of their neighbours died than has been reported, and he said it was right to “validate what they’re saying, they’re not making it up”.
The MP also called for all relevant Grenfell Tower documents to be seized by the prime minister and Metropolitan Police as soon as possible, reported the Telegraph.
"When you have tragedies of this kind that could have been prevented, we know from Hillsborough and other affairs in our national life that governments, local authorities, big corporations, companies, the contractors – they cover their backs. That's why I raised issues around the documentation," he said.
Lammy has previously labelled the fire as "corporate manslaughter" and called for arrests to be made.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Just beyond the parking lot of the Jackson Women's Health Centre in Mississippi, protesters gather, brandishing signs, singing hymns, and clutching their Bibles. Escorts and security guards hold the line between the protestors and the women entering the clinic, but the protesters raise their voices for all to hear.
"Mommy, mommy, don't kill me, mommy," a man in a pro-life T-shirt says to a woman approaching the clinic. A child among the protesters calls out, "In the end, there will be judgment!"
As the last abortion clinic in Mississippi, the Health Centre has become the front line of the state's war on reproductive rights. On one side of the parking lot stand the doctors who wish to protect women's right to choose, and on the other stand those who'd like to see the clinic shut down for good. This contentious fight has been documented by Maisie Crow, a documentary film director, cinematographer, and photographer.
After finishing The Last Clinic, her short film about the Health Centre, Crow started working on another film, Jackson, a full-length version that tells the story of abortion access in Mississippi from all angles. In fact, Jackson features abortion providers and crisis pregnancy center (CPC) employees in equal measure.
For those who aren't familiar with CPCs, they are essentially offices that work to deter women from having abortions. The tactics they use involve false information and emotional manipulation, and they're usually in close proximity to actual abortion clinics — it's not uncommon for CPC employees to intercept women on their way to terminate a pregnancy.
Crow says that the goals of a CPC go well beyond stopping an abortion. Oftentimes, women leave these facilities believing that giving birth is their only " real" option. That's exactly the impression that April Jackson, the pregnant mother of four whom Crow features in Jackson, came away with.
"She didn’t know that she could go to the [abortion] clinic, or [she] was too fearful to go because of what the anti-abortion movement had instilled in her," Crow says. "In places like Mississippi, the anti-abortion movement’s message is just so much louder than the message for choice."
And according to Crow, that's exactly what the Jackson Women's Health Centre is working to counteract: Its goal is to promote choice. "Not to provide women necessarily with abortions, but to provide women with the option to have an abortion," she says.
This message lies at the heart of Jackson, and all of Crow's work in Mississippi, for that matter. Abortion isn't accessible simply when a clinic is allowed to remain open. It's accessible when women have the information, resources, and emotional space to decide for themselves whether they're going to walk into that clinic in the first place.
Throughout her time filming in Mississippi, Crow shot still photos of the clinic and the people in and around it. On the one-year anniversary of the Supreme Court's decision to strike down abortion restrictions in Texas, we're bringing Crow's images to your attention as a reminder of the state of abortion access nationwide. "We need to work hard for the people in Mississippi, but we also need to be aware that this is happening across the country," Crow says.
Ahead, view a selection of Crow's work and read about her experiences in her own words.
"Ester Mann, an anti-abortion protestor and self-proclaimed sidewalk counsellor, stations herself at the edge of the clinic’s parking lot, the closest she can legally get to the facility, in an effort to stop women from going inside. She spends the morning reading scripture out of her bedazzled Bible, only stopping if she suspects an approaching car is dropping off a patient."
"A patient waits for an abortion procedure at Jackson Women's Health Organisation, Mississippi’s only remaining abortion clinic. All providers who work at the clinic must travel in from out of state. The clinic has had difficulty finding local doctors because of the hostility towards abortion providers in Mississippi."
"Anti-abortion protestors stand outside of Jackson Women's Health Organisation as women arrive at the beginning of the day for counselling sessions. Women must receive counselling at least 24 hours in advance of getting the procedure because of a state law. This means that women are forced to come and go for two appointments at the clinic, passing by protestors each time they enter and exit."
"Matt Friedeman, a professor at Wesley Biblical Seminary, and other anti-abortion protestors sing outside the front gates of Jackson Women's Health Centre as women arrive for a counselling session."
"Angela Orey, an administrative assistant at the clinic, watches anti-abortion protesters outside of the clinic from the front desk. Having worked at Jackson Women's Health Organisation for 12 years, what she sees beyond the windows is something she's had to become accustomed to in order to work there."
"Mario Funches, a clinic security guard, gathers pro-choice signs placed by clinic escorts and clinic staff alongside the clinic fence, which they use to block the view of anti-abortion protestors seeking to dissuade women from entering."
"Roy Benjamin, IV, a clinic security guard, waits for Dr. Willie Parker to arrive so that he can escort him inside. The guards are responsible for ensuring the safety of the patients and the clinic’s staff."
"Dr. Willie Parker is one of three doctors who travel to Mississippi to provide abortion care at the state’s last clinic, Jackson Women’s Health Organisation. Dr. Parker has become a vocal advocate of reproductive rights, traveling the country to speak about the importance of abortion access and choice. He often points to his faith as the thing that empowered him to be an abortion provider."
*Dr. Parker no longer provides abortions at this specific clinic (he now mainly works in Alabama and Georgia, two states that are comparably restrictive to Mississippi). You can read more about his work — and how his Christian faith informs it — in our Q&A with him from earlier this year.
"Aarimis Armstrong, 21, a scrub technician, prepares to weigh a specimen after an abortion procedure. Armstrong began working at the clinic a week after she had her own abortion there. She said she wanted to use her experience of what it felt like to make the decision. Having an abortion, she said, had been the only option for her."
"Miriam, 21, at a pre-operation counselling session. Patients are required to wait 24 hours before having an abortion. Prior to that, they must fill out paperwork, receive an ultrasound, undergo counselling, and speak with a doctor about the procedure."
"Ron Nederhoed, an anti-abortion protestor, stands outside of the clinic with a huge sign reading 'abortionist,' a term anti-abortion protestors seem to use to try to disrespect doctors who provide abortion care."
"April Jackson holds one of her newborn twins shortly after giving birth last year. April, now a mother of seven, turned to the Centre for Pregnancy Choices with many of her previous pregnancies. The anti-abortion organisation has an agenda to stop women with unwanted pregnancies from seeking abortion. They often push an abstinence-only agenda and dissuade women from using contraceptives."
Check out the trailer for Jackson and look for a screening near you here.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
It was a typical baby shower — or, at least, it looked like one. Someone had twirled pastel streamers across the walls and strung up pale pink and blue balloons. The gift table was overflowing with adorable Onesies and binkies, boxes of wipes, and a blue plush bear. Guests giggled their way through silly shower activities; there was a round of "guess the celebrity mum" and a bottle-chugging contest.
The only thing that appeared to be missing was the mother-to-be herself. She never showed, but that, along with the guest list, gifts, and games, seemed to be part of the plan. The shower was a club event organised by Missouri State University’s chapter of Students for Life. And the “gifts” were donations for a local Pregnancy Care Centre that counsels women against abortion.
“We had a blast...all while reminiscing about the culture of LIFE our generation is fostering, both on campus and across the nation,” a caption on the MSUBearsForLife Instagram account reads.
All of this — the young ambassadors seemingly stripped straight from the sorority composite, cute baby clothes, the festive metallic balloons — is the new Instagram-ready face of the modern anti-abortion movement. You know that old stereotype of in-your-face angry protestors outside abortion clinics waving pictures of dead foetuses? These events are the polar opposite.
While the current political landscape has led many abortion rights activists to focus their ire on the male lawmakers introducing and voting in anti-choice legislation, these "pro-lifers" are young, social-media savvy — and overwhelmingly female. And, at a critical moment in the fight over abortion, they're betting this softer lens will help frame the issue in their favour and, ultimately, win over the next generation of voters.
The pro-life group on campus, their job is to say: yes you can.
Theirs is an approach that leans hard on the women’s maternal impulses trope, focusing on aww -worthy images of infants, and celebrations of motherhood. They’re throwing showers, petitioning for nursing rooms on campus, stockpiling itty-bitty baby socks to symbolise their steadfast opposition to Planned Parenthood. They rely on lifelike 3-D ultrasound pics and pregnancy apps to make the case for personhood during the earliest stages of pregnancy. Their social media accounts pop with inspirational quotes, mommy-blog worthy pics, and celebrity baby bumps.
“We love to highlight when famous celebrities are talking about their pregnancies or posting cute pictures on Instagram,” says Bethany Goodman, assistant director of the annual March for Life rally. “It kind of connects to the inherent knowledge that we believe that everyone has: that an unborn baby is a baby.” A recent post from Students for Life replicated that technique, congratulating Beyoncé and Jay Z on the “the life and birth of the twins!”
And when you ask these activists to describe their passion for this cause, the responses are dripping in rhetoric reminiscent of — of all things — pop-feminism. The language of girl power and images of feminine strength are used liberally.
“This is about a generation of women saying, 'We’re better than this, we’re more empowered,'” says Americans United For Life president Catherine Glenn Foster. “We’re not going to be stuck in the Victorian Era, where men are going to say we can’t work and have a family.”
Arina Grossu, the 34-year old director of Human Dignity at the Family Research Council, sees a wave of women standing up and saying: “We are empowered, we can do it all. We want solutions, and killing our baby isn’t a solution.” Students for Life President Kristan Hawkins blasts the idea that a woman can’t have a child and go to college. “It’s complete and utter bullshit. That’s the message of 'you can’t'; of 'you’re not strong enough to do this,'” she says.
“The pro-life group on campus, their job is to say: Yes you can.”
If that sloganeering sounds familiar, that's because it's been the choice phrase of feminists on the front lines of the abortion debate for literally decades (not to mention the mantra that launched pro-choice President Barack Obama into the White House back in the mid-aughts). But this new crop of pro-lifers see a major flaw in the left's logic behind those messages.
On the left, feminists who support abortion rights are focused on tying reproductive choice to economic well-being, while simultaneously settling on hard truths, like we can’t really have it all. Reproductive freedom, which includes the right to an abortion, they say, is crucial to women's economic independence and empowerment. (Case in point: More than 100 female attorneys signed an amicus brief to that effect, filed last year in the Supreme Court case over Texas’ clinic regulations). But for women on the other side of the debate, motherhood, even unplanned motherhood, is deserving of a you-go-girl message all its own: Yes, you can have it all — including that baby.
Students for Life President Kristen Hawkins, center, leads a chant at an anti-abortion rally.Photo: Allison Shelley/Getty Images
Critics are quick to call out what they see as the hypocrisy of lawmakers pushing for anti-abortion laws, while simultaneously failing to prioritise policies that make juggling parenthood possible. “It is new and it is woefully blind to class and equity,” Karissa Haugeberg, author of Women Against Abortion: Inside the Largest Moral Reform Movement of the 20th Century, says of this "pro-life" message. The “myth that women can have it all,” she adds, ignores the “reality of life for low-income and even middle class women. It is less and less financially possible for even a woman without a child.”
That family policy question is a complicated one for anti-abortion activists, especially given the movement's large GOP base (Hawkins, for example, identifies as a fiscal conservative and opposes government-mandated family leave; other women involved in the movement interviewed by Refinery29 expressed support for such proposals). But enacting more pro-mum legislation isn’t exactly the point. A key aim, activists say, is to create a broader culture shift, one that celebrates and prioritises "life." That is what, they believe, will help to bring to their side a group they see as crucial in the high-stakes fight over reproductive rights: the so-called “mushy middle," voters who have conflicted, or not yet fully-formed, opinions on abortion.
The anti-abortion movement always knew it was vulnerable to criticism if it looked like it was a bunch of white men trying to tell women and people of colour what to do with their bodies.
It might be hard to believe that these people even exist, given that abortion remains one of the most polarising issues in the country, even among women. One recent study from Pew Research found 59% of Americans believe abortion should be legal in all or most cases — a statistic that's at a 20-year-high, with women driving the increase. But the sentiment is split along partisan lines. Among Democratic women, support for legal abortion spikes to 85%; while among Republican women, it’s only 32%.
But that's just the Pew poll: Gallup data shows Americans evenly split when it comes to identifying as pro-choice or pro-life. Another, from Knights of Columbus and Marist, found that while a majority of Americans 18 to 34 identify as pro-choice (58%, to precise) virtually the exact same percentage of millennials would ban abortion after 20 weeks, except when necessary to save the life of the the mother. Half of those young voters consider abortion morally wrong. (Pew and Gallup have both found similar trends, with at least 4 in 10 Americans overall holding that view).
Hence: the must-win mushy middle. These people are predominantly young, and, like many millennials, they eschew labels. Talking pro-life vs. pro-choice doesn’t do much to move the needle (Hawkins and other Students for Life activists says they’ve mostly stopped using the term pro-life when canvassing on campus because it doesn’t resonate). What does, anti-abortion activists have concluded, is something the reproductive rights side has already been cultivating for years: a “woman-focused brand.”
Photo: Bill Clark/CQ Roll Call.
The Institute For Pro-Life Advancement, an arm of Students for Life, lays out the imperative for focusing on “women’s equality and well-being” in a 2016 research and polling report. It’s a strategy informed by the success of one of their chief adversaries: Planned Parenthood.
“They appealed to emotion and claimed woman-focused messaging as their own — and it worked,” the briefing says. To counter that, the report advises doubling down on what it calls “the abortion industry’s betrayal of women” in a way that is clear, concise, and, most importantly, “not judgmental.”
“We know,” the briefing reads, “that our message going forward must be pro-woman...that pro-lifers and individuals on the fence will come together to oppose injustice against women.” That messaging has been core to Students for Life’s aggressive grassroots field campaign. In the decade since its founding, the number of Students for Life chapters on college and high school campuses has increased tenfold, to 1,200. In the past year, the group chartered its first middle school chapter.
Claudia Schwenzer, a 21-year-old senior at Oakland University in Michigan, was once a member of that mushy middle. Her mum supported abortion rights, as did her older sister. She herself remembers getting riled up after clicking a link on Facebook that warned cuts to Planned Parenthood would leave women without access to healthcare, thinking, “I can’t believe pro-life people would do this to women.” When it came to describing the “pro-life” movement, the word “hateful” came to mind. “I definitely thought that it was just old people on the sidewalk in front of a clinic holding signs, protesting and yelling,” she says.
I realized [the movement] was younger people, like me and my friends. That was the first step of ‘this is who I am now, and there’s no going back.
Then, in January 2014, a teacher at her Catholic high school handed her a flier about the upcoming March for Life. Curious, she brought the form home and worked up the nerve to ask her mum for permission to go and cash to cover the $90 trip fee. After an all-night bus ride, she rolled into in Washington and saw the sea of women filling the streets. The signs, the songs, the prayers, she felt, were focused on protecting people like her.
“I realised [the movement] was younger people, like me and my friends,” she says. “That was the first step of ‘this is who I am now, and there’s no going back.’”
Schwenzer is now a board member of her university’s Students for Life chapter. Her room is so full with pro-life lit and swag — a “Feminists for Life” bumper sticker is affixed to her mirror — that her pro-choice mum can’t come in without “being surrounded” by it. When her parents turn on left-leaning late-night shows, many of which decry the ongoing attack on reproductive rights, she quietly leaves the room.
But what peeves Schwenzer most is listening to her peers, including her “radically left” sister, whom she also describes as her best friend, complain that her cause is dominated by old, white men in Washington who “want to control my body... want their hands on my uterus.” It’s a popular sentiment for Women’s March signs and feminist merch. But while it's true that the majority of the GOP caucus — and, if we’re being honest, Congress as a whole — fits that description, young, female, anti-abortion activists like Schwenzer say that characterisation fails to account for their growing influence.
“The pro-life movement is female-led, as it should be,” Schwenzer says. “It is true there are men in Washington who are making these decisions. But people don’t understand that it is young women who are advocating for their rights and for their unborn children's.”
Women have, of course, always been central figures in the debate over abortion on both sides. But their role in the anti-abortion movement has evolved over time.
In those early days, the movement’s most visible female voices were the wives of the male leaders, or women organising on a grassroots level, according Haugeberg, who teaches at Tulane University and has studied the movement extensively. Others soon rose in prominence, though it wasn’t without conflict. Activist Marjory Mecklenburg, who chaired NRL in the wake of Roe v. Wade, left to start her own organisation over a split on prioritising the rights of the foetus versus the needs of pregnant women, Haugeberg writes. In the mid-1970s, NRL named Mildred F. Jefferson, the first Black woman to graduate from Harvard Medical School, as its president.
Dr. Mildred Jefferson, an early leader in the anti-abortion movement.Photo: Steve Larson/The Denver Post/Getty Images.
Jefferson’s background as a doctor made her a compelling and powerful surrogate. (After her death, one NRL leader praised her as “the greatest orator of our movement.”) Women like her “achieved pretty big leadership posts pretty quickly because they were anomalies,” according to Haugeberg. “The anti-abortion movement always knew it was vulnerable to criticism if it looked like it was a bunch of white men trying to tell women and people of colour what to do with their bodies,” she says. “They were really sensitive to that — and it was true, it was a lot of white men. In a PR move, they tried to promote people of colour and women very quickly to have them be the face of the movement.”
The true roots of the “women centric” message that is experiencing a resurgence today, Haugeberg argues, is the Crisis Pregnancy Centre. These centres, which offer pregnancy tests and counsel women against abortion, started popping up in the 1960s. Many were led by women. And they took a different approach than the “fire and brimstone” rhetoric of other leading conservatives.
It is so powerful visually that so many pro-life organisations at this point are being led by women, and many of them young women.
“It was much softer and more gentle,” Haugeberg says. “They basically treated girls like they had been victimised by boyfriends who didn’t care about them, or had gone wayward. It was part proselytising, offering them a redemption pass.” For decades, these women, and their message, remained the minority faction, according to Haugeberg’s research. But in the 1980s, she says, the “[anti-abortion movement] realised it was untenable, to simultaneously make women be pregnant and then demonise them for being pregnant.” The woman-focused approach moved to the forefront.
Today, women are serving in key roles on all levels of the movement. Women lead 60% of Students for Life chapters nationwide, Hawkins estimates. Five out of six full-time March for Life staffers are female , and organisers claim that the “majority of those who march are female and/or millennial” (Hawkins says a plan to hold a voter-registration drive at one was a bust because so many participants were under 18). Leading groups that advocate for restricting abortion — March for Life, National Right to Life, Susan B. Anthony List, Americans United for Life — have women at the helm.
“It is so powerful visually that so many pro-life organisations at this point are being led by women, and many of them young women,” Foster, who was just named AUL president this May, says, adding: “We are very thoughtful and intellectually choosing life, and that’s what we’re about.”
Maddi Runkles was, in many respects, a model student at Heritage Academy, a private Christian school in western Maryland. She got straight A’s and was elected president of the student council. When she wasn’t playing soccer or hanging with friends, she volunteered at Vacation Bible School and for Meals on Wheels. That résumé helped her secure admission to Bob Jones University, one of the preeminent conservative Christian schools in the nation.
Then she got pregnant. She thought briefly about abortion, she has said, but decided to have the baby. Her parents pledged their support. But Heritage Academy's leadership saw things differently: Premarital sex is a violation of the institution’s moral code, and Maddi had broken that rule. They suspended her, a punishment she says she accepted. Then came word the visibility pregnant teen wouldn’t be allowed to walk at her graduation. “The best way to love her right now is to hold her accountable for her morality that began this situation,” the principal reportedly wrote in a letter to parents.
A post shared by Students for Life of America (@studentsforlife) on
“She made the courageous decision to choose life, and she definitely should not be shamed,” Hawkins told The New York Times at the time. “There has got to be a way to treat a young woman who becomes pregnant in a graceful and loving way.”
That public support came with costs. The group lost donors, Hawkins says, and she personally received nasty messages from fellow, mostly older, activists who felt she was wrongly celebrating teen pregnancy. Some took issue with her taking aim at the actions of a Christian school. She concedes that the controversy probably hurt the Christian cause. But to Hawkins, highlighting the case was critical — she worries that a response rooted in shame is what drives young women to seek abortions in the first place. And there's another silver lining: She thinks her stance might have struck a chord with another key demographic in her fight to end abortion.
“I told Maddi at graduation, ‘I think we probably made a lot of new pro-lifers,’" Hawkins says. “It probably made some people who are in the mushy middle go, ‘Yeah, I want to be part of that.’”
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Never underestimate the power of a your-lips-but-better nude to set off a work outfit, or how a pop of red can take your night-out look up a notch. No matter the outfit or the situation, a slick of lipstick can be transformative, not only in the style stakes but in your mood and confidence, too.
But with lipstick comes commitment. Just think of the potential problems: chapped lips, bleeding edges, no staying power, marks on your teeth and smudges across your chin. So what's one of the biggest clinchers for ensuring your Cupid's bow stays in check? The formulation, of course. Luckily, Burt’s Bees’ new 100% Natural Lipstick is the antidote to all your lipstick woes.
There are 18 (yes, 18!) shades on offer. From pinks, corals and reds to deeper tones of plum and berry, plus a selection of nudes, you could even go as far as matching your lipstick to your outfit. We're eyeing up Fuchsia Flood, a bubblegum pink, for our summer holidays and blue-toned red, Scarlet Soaked for balmy BBQ evenings. For an everyday neutral, Blush Basin and Suede Splash are our favourites, while Crimson Coast, a deeper red, is the perfect dance floor partner.
The nourishing satin-finish formula lends just the right amount of sheen without compromising on staying power, which makes it perfect for the warmer months when easy beauty is our go-to and a full matte lip can feel too heavy. It’s buildable, too; use your ring finger to pat the lipstick into lips for a hint of colour or, for a more pigmented finish, swipe it on from the bullet or use a lip brush.
Then there's the key ingredients of moringa oil, raspberry seed oil, mimosa flower wax and community-sourced beeswax, which guarantee up to eight hours of moisture, so you can forget about dryness and unsightly patches – lips are left feeling soft and smooth instead.
A lipstick range that moisturises and nourishes without compromising on colour? We’ll take all 18, please.
To find out more about the Burt's Bees 100% Natural Lipstick collection, watch our 'Beauty Surgery' Facebook Live.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
There’s that age-old, frat-boy saying that women, like a fine wine, only get better with age. Cringeworthy, but could it be true?
Take this week at the movies. The three main films of note are Hampstead, a romantic comedy about a homeless Londoner; The Seasons in Quincy, an experimental documentary about a recently deceased art critic; and Souvenir, a little-known French arthouse melodrama set in a paté factory.
Each movie, taken on its own, has received indifferent reviews. But look a little closer and there’s something remarkable at play here.
The stars of each are America’s Diane Keaton, aged 71; Scottish actress Tilda Swinton, who also directs, aged 56; and France's Isabelle Huppert, aged 64.
There’s a truism in performing circles. For men, age makes it easier. For women, age is the enemy. As Cate Blanchett, 48, said recently: “Actress years are like dog years.”
Sexism in cinema doesn’t need evidence – it’s obvious. Even before the creation of the Bechdel test, which analyses whether a fiction film contains at least two female characters who speak about something that isn’t a man, the film industry weathered a torrent of criticism for its treatment of women.
There are signs the industry has started to respond. The number of female characters in films has begun to increase and, in Hollywood productions last year, a little over one-third of speaking parts were played by women. Which is great, until you consider the fact that the average actress reaches their earning peak at the age of 30, while male actors see their careers peak at the age of 46, according to a TIME analysis of the careers of over 6,000 actors and actresses who have played the lead role in at least one feature film.
Then there’s the study from the University of Southern California’s Annenberg School for Communication and Journalism, which looked at 1,256 speaking parts in 25 movies that received Best Picture Oscar nominations from 2014 to 2016. It found that only 148 – or 12% – of the characters from these films were more than 60 years of age. Of those 148 characters, only 22% were women. That's 3.5 men for every woman in what is already a minuscule category.
It’s almost as if the film industry has bought into the bullshit about the biological clock and come to the conclusion that, if you’re not of perfect childbearing age, you can’t act.
As Zoe Saldana said in an interview with The Telegraph: "By the time you’re 28 you’re expired, you’re playing mummy roles."
Maggie Gyllenhaal has also revealed she was turned down for a role opposite a 55-year-old actor because, at 37, she was considered by casting directors to be “too old” to play his partner.
Yet men can carry on being the romantic lead until they pick up their pension. As Vulture noted recently, Hollywood routinely pairs young actresses with much older male leads (but never the other way round).
There are, of course, notable and celebrated exceptions. “Meryl Streep is so brilliant in August: Osage County,” Tina Fey said when opening the Golden Globes in 2014, “proving that there are still great parts in Hollywood for Meryl Streeps over 60.”
Streep has ruled the roost of older actresses for a long time. But what of the other women who are leading the way on our cinema screens this week?
The daughter of a Catholic schoolteacher who encouraged her daughter to act, and a Jewish manufacturer of safes, forced to conceal his background during the Nazi occupation, the 5ft 3in, pale, tightly wound Isabelle Huppert is the physical embodiment of French arthouse cinema, and Parisian culture in general. Forty-six years into an acting career, Souvenir is one of six films Huppert has slated for release in 2017. Among them is Elle, the controversial rape-revenge dramedy, and Happy End, her fourth collaboration with Michael Haneke, shot in the Calais 'Jungle' before it was bulldozed.
In Souvenir, Huppert plays bored and lonely factory worker Liliane, once a contestant in the European Song Contest. It’s about as shallow and fluffy a movie as Huppert has leant her name to, yet the film is still notable for the way her character can embark on a romance with a 21-year-old without it feeling the slightest bit out of sorts.
But her early career did not immediately mark her out as an acting prodigy. True, she won a BAFTA at the age of 24 for Claude Goretta's La Dentellière. But it wasn’t until her American film debut, in Michael Cimino's Heaven's Gate, an overlooked masterpiece, that Huppert started to gain genuine attention. By that point, she was in her late 20s. As she moved into her 30s, she started to become the actress we know today, working with Jean-Luc Godard, Andrzej Wajda and Claude Chabrol.
The Australian film critic Julie Rigg tells Refinery29 about the experience of interviewing Huppert in Venice for the release of White Material, the film she made with Claire Denis. “I asked Huppert some banal question about how she managed to achieve all that she does,” Rigg says. “She looked down at my feet, which were red and swollen in new sandals I’d bought for the Venice summer. ‘Comfortable shoes’ she said, and laughed.”
Diane Keaton’s career has lasted even longer. She made her debut in 1970, at the age of 24. Her third film, at 26, was The Godfather. At 28 came The Godfather II, and then, at 31, Annie Hall. Look at her early work: few actresses in cinema can point to such considered credits. She has continued to make a movie every year ever since.
As for Swinton, she didn’t start seriously performing until well into her degree in social and political sciences at Cambridge University. She spent her 20s on small parts in small movies, coming to some prominence through her relationship with the cult arthouse director Derek Jarman, with whom she first worked on Caravaggio at age 26. It wasn’t until Danny Boyle’s The Beach, in 2000, that Swinton started to garner mainstream attention. By that time, she had turned 40.
Hannah McGill, the film critic and former artistic director of the Edinburgh Film Festival, tells Refinery29 that the suggestion it’s all over for female actresses at 30 is overplayed – and risks becoming another way of imposing self-doubt on women.
"It's certainly true that Hollywood and the wider mainstream film business have a depressing tendency to cleave to convention by placing women in more passive roles, and having a lot of use for female eye candy,” McGill says. “But there's also a long tradition of female actors consolidating their power and doing their best work in their 30s and 40s, and carrying on long beyond that.
"Think of Mae West, Bette Davis, Barbara Stanwyck, Joan Crawford, Lucille Ball, Barbra Streisand – these were women who retained business clout, high glamour and megastardom far beyond the supposed female sell-by date."
McGill suggests we try and look at ageism the other way around, by worrying more about the dearth of substantial, non-objectifying roles for young women, rather than constantly claiming that it's all over at 30.
"The more young women get to cut their teeth on actual parts as complex human beings, rather than set-dressing, the more savvy and experienced actresses – rather than exploited-and-dumped flash-in-the-pan It Girls – will develop, and the more movies will be built around them as their working lives go on," she says.
"Nor should we confuse ‘still really young’ with ‘better off in every way’. In the movie business, as in life, being fresh-faced and in high sexual demand does not equal having power or control. The idea that there are twenty-somethings running around controlling Hollywood and getting first pick of all the best projects is bogus – but it's one that will only shift by women and men alike rejecting it.
"Why do we seem intent on minimising the achievements of older women, and hand-wringing on their behalf, rather than recognising that their success actually makes perfect sense?"
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
