If you love fragrance then you’ll know your Le Labo from your Byredo, probably have a Serge Lutens nestling in your careful edit of luxury classics, and be able to dart (unseen by consultant eyes) through department stores to unearth the hidden gems no one has but you. But did you know there’s a fresh bunch of niche brands snapping at the heels of their established elder siblings, and hey, didn’t you smell your Frederic Malle on the bus to work this morning?
Here’s our guide to what’s new in niche perfumery, but first a word about telling the niche from the not-so. "A niche is a little nook, something set apart and slightly obscured – if it’s niche you’ll have to look for it," says James Craven of independent perfume boutique Les Senteurs. So here’s your head start. Happy hunting…
Heeley
The fact that self-taught fragrance creator James Heeley studied Philosophy and Aesthetics before moving to Paris and pursuing his perfumery dreams should give you an in to his atmospheric and elegant line. All are cool, airy and wearable, so which to choose? Try Sel Marin, a seaside-inspired slug of salt, leather, brisk citrus and driftwood), L’Amandière, a woodland orchard in bloom, or the newest offering Chypre 21 which is dry, warm, neck-nuzzling and unisex.
The Perfumer’s Story
The memory of a love affair, the dusty collapse of an antique book… perfumer Azzi Glasser finds inspiration in moments and moods, and categorises her new collection by ‘Character & Style’. So while Sequoia Wood, Glasser’s own signature scent is Sensual/Creative/Edgy, Twisted, Iris is Bohemian/Loving/Unique. Find your olfactory alter-ego in her palette of 11 richly delicious smells. We’re in.
Tom Daxon
Tom Daxon grew up surrounded by fragrance (his mother was the creative director for Molton Brown) and now makes green, creamy and utterly lovely scents of his own, blended in the UK from oils produced in the South of France. Magnolia Heights is his newest, and a little piece of magic. From a dry and airy beginning comes something soft, warm and honey-like, with white blooms, jasmine, wood and musk.
Magnolia Heights, £105 for 50ml, available from April at Les Senteurs
Ex Nihilo
Oh punky and luxurious Ex Nihilo! Created by perfumers with no brief other than to break the rules, these are nine fine fragrances you’ll experience through puffs of scented air in a vibrant blue boutique –and (if you choose the demi-bespoke option) you can have yours personalised in a high-precision blender while you watch. Fleur Narcotique is the crowd pleaser – a joyful pile of fresh petals and musky fruit, you’ll love it.
Fleur Narcotique, £150 for 50ml available at Harrods Salons de Parfums
Tauer Perfumes
If niche perfumery is the rarefied nook of the fragrance market, imagine a hidden cabinet right at the back and that’s where you’ll find Andy Tauer, a small-scale perfumer blending grown-up scents sold in one UK retailer only. His newest creations are Lonesome Rider (a manly punch of smoke, spice and leather) and Tuberose Sotto La Luna (fresh, rich and spicy, and probably one of the earthiest florals you’ll ever own).
Tuberose Sotto La Luna, £110 for 50ml, available at Les Senteurs
Vilhelm Parfumerie
Pass through the Liberty of London perfumery hall and you can’t miss the daffodil-yellow jolt of the Vilhelm counter. Liberty’s most successful beauty launch ever, the label shares the name of founder Jan Ahlgren’s Grandfather, and specialises in little pieces of romance. There’s a tea and apple tribute to Ahlgren’s wife, a lemon and geranium-spiked summer in a bottle, and coming this spring, A Lilac A Day – a green and florist-y bouquet of freshly-cut stems.
A Lilac A Day, £145 for 100ml, available from April at Liberty
ZarkoPerfume
Danish perfumer Zarko Ahlmann Pavlov set out to capture the landscape, climate and mindset of Scandinavia (file under coolly beautiful then), creating five airy scents with an occasional shot of something warm and woodsy. Molécule 234.38 interacts with the wearer’s own pheromones and changes with body temperature throughout the day – we got a little bit dry, a little bit musky, how about you?
ZarkoPerfume Molécule 234.38, £75 for 100ml, available from April at Space NK
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