By definition fashion is about evolution, newness and change. Now, more than ever, the industry is in a serious state of flux, challenging what has gone before, as both established fashion houses and emerging designers begin to merge men's and womenswear on the catwalk. Whether it's via the catwalk pics streaming your Insta feed or trend reports online or in magazines, for years we've grown accustomed to seeing women's shows in February and September and, more recently, men's in January and June. However, increasingly for labels (jostling in a competitive and unstable market) it makes more sense both logistically and financially to consolidate men's and women's into one unified show, thereby shaking up the traditional system.
Yesterday, London Fashion Week Men's (previously known as London Collections Men) concluded for the AW17 season and although the official name might suggest otherwise, a significant proportion of designers presented womenswear among the men's offering. Whispers from the front row asked whether there would still be a place for men's fashion week in seasons to come as more brands announce that they will be showcasing men's collections during women's fashion month in February and March instead. However, we'd like to hope that LFWM will stick around, as over the past few days we saw provocative and powerful collections that really inspired us about dressing next season.
As unisex clothing becomes more and more mainstream and male and female collections are showcased side by side on the catwalk, ahead are our favourite looks for women from London Fashion Week Men's AW17.
Katie Eary
There are certain shows that we anticipate will always be energetic and fun and when they have a 9am start time that's certainly what the weary (*hungover) fashion crowd needs. When the designer is then spotted backstage in a customised Yeezy T-shirt adorned with black nipple tassels and the show space is filled with giant boob balloons, our predictions are confirmed.
For AW17, Katie Eary (who is as effervescent and colourful as her presentations) showcased a '70s-inspired, psychedelic collection centred on pyjama-style pieces rendered in vivid shades of orange, pink and red. Daisy Lowe opened the show, followed by models ready for bed (albeit the most glamorous boudoir/pyjama party) with teddy bears in hand, wearing chameleon-printed PJs, dressing gowns transformed into going-out dresses and feather-adorned ribbed jumpers.
Photo:
Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner's show is one of the most eagerly awaited on the men's schedule, though womenswear buyers and female fashion fans alike are just as keen as the men's press to see what the young designer does next. Since her debut in 2015, Wales Bonner has explored duality and history in her poetic collections, drawing on her own mixed heritage and west Africa's rich past.
For AW17, the 26-year-old presented her most contemporary offering, with influences of streetwear, showcasing a collection comprising leather biker jackets, zip-up puffas, houndstooth duffle coats, elegant suits and diaphanous drapery. Pieces were elevated with intricate embellishment, studded with Swarovski crystals.
Despite more modern references, the show was still an assortment of historical, diverse figures as Grace unveiled "these very Renaissance effeminate guys and then spiritual figures all in white, then dancehall inspired 1970s Jamaican characters."
We want to be a Wales Bonner woman.
Photo: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
Matthew Miller
We've said it once and we'll say it again. We'll stop wearing black when they invent a darker colour.
Matthew Miller's sombre AW17 collection, entitled Fear Itself, was a direct response to political unrest, in a post-Brexit, Trump-led world. In the press release the designer explained: “Autumn/Winter 17 is protecting oneself in the post truth era. Uniforms for the disenchanted, disenfranchised and disengaged." Miller offered clean, crisp silhouettes and wearable outwear in shades of black, punctuated with more colourful print and flashes of blood red. We can already see ourselves in that leather jacket over the belted coat and polo neck.
Photo: Victor Virgile/Getty Images
Sibling
This season, the Sibling duo took inspiration from Barcelona’s Park Güell and Gaudi’s iconic designs, for a collection brought to life with 'Mental Mosaic'. In the characteristically colourful collection, graphics were inspired by the Spanish architect's tiles, in rich orange, navy and red featuring across tailored suits, bomber jackets, full-bodied skirts and knitwear.
There were also zebra stripes, and sequins alongside tribal-patterned socks and leopard print, inspired by East End Queen, Barbara Windsor. It wouldn't be right for a brand so imbued with the energy and dynamism of London not to be somewhat inspired by the vibrant capital and Gaudi aside, the collection was a celebration of punk, London's Pearly Kings and Queens, and the tough and not so tough girls and boys of east London.
Casely-Hayford
For AW17, the father-son design duo showcased a moving collection that celebrated the 30-year career of Creative Director Joe Casely-Hayford, delving into the designer's rich archive to reimagine pieces from the '80s, '90s and early '00s.
It also introduced the brand's first full womenswear collection, which masterfully played with proportions and volume in sumptuous print and elegant tailoring. Since Casely-Hayford's launch in 2008, many have hoped that the luxury men's fashion house would add womenswear into their offering, and the duo's sophisticated debut definitely did not disappoint.
Photo: Eamonn M.McCormack/Getty Images
Agi & Sam
Soundtracked by Boiler Room's DJ Holy Other as models strode through The Welsh Chapel, Agi & Sam's AW17 collection was a comment on political and social unrest, capturing the mood of many among the aggrieved London fashion community.
The collection, a collaboration with Woolmark, featured a woollen jacket printed with a European Union flag, poignantly conveying the designers' disappointment over Brexit. Highlights from the collection included this textured, red, black and white statement overcoat.
Photo: Eamonn M.McCormack/Getty ImagesLike what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
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