Ah, concealer. It’s amazing to think that that one little stick or pot holds the difference between hiding behind a lamp post to narrowly avoid bumping into an ex and confidently striding down the highstreet channelling Beyoncé. What this product can do for your skin (and confidence) is mind-boggling. Got a spot? Hide it. Bags under your eyes? Cover them. Redness? Gone without a trace. And with so many new tricks to try and shade options in abundance, concealer is fast becoming the most powerful product in your makeup bag. Here’s how to use it like you’ve never used it before.
Invest in multiple shades
According to the pros, the most common mistake people make with concealer is sticking to just one colour. “By using a variety you can create much more of a natural finish,” explains Jane Richardson, international lead stylist at NARS Cosmetics. “I usually use three shades; one that matches my skin tone, one a tone lighter and one a tone darker,” she says. This trick works wonders around the eyes. If yours have dark blue-ish shadows for example, choose a peach-toned concealer and apply that first. “Next, use a lighter shade to highlight the outer and inner corner of your eyes, then apply the shade that matches your skin tone just under the eye and up towards the bottom lash line to blend it all together,” she advises. Ok, we admit it’s more costly, but it’s worth it to achieve extra flawlessness (and avoid that reverse panda look no one ever looked good sporting. Ever.)
Try: NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer, £22.50, Bobbi Brown Retouching Face Pencil, £22, Amazing Cosmetics Amazing Concealer, £29.50
Be clever with blemishes
While many people use concealer before their base to cover up a breakout, Hannah Martin, Bobbi Brown senior pro artist advises otherwise: “Apply it after your foundation to ensure it doesn’t move the concealer, then set it with a powder,” she says. Got a raised blemish? By dabbing on any old shade and hoping for the best you run the risk of enhancing the problem, not reducing it and by the end of the day it’ll probably end up looking like a mountain of caked product. Use the multi-shade trick again; “Apply the colour that matches your skin tone onto the spot then blend your lighter shade around the edges and outwards,” explains Jane. “The darker shade will push it back while the light around it will bring it forward to softly diffuse its depth. It takes a little more time but looks great.”
Illustration by Anna Sudit.
Know your corrector from your concealer
What the hell is the difference, you may ask. In a nut shell, concealers are skin-coloured and cover up the problem while correctors come in many different shades (green, pink, peach, yellow etc, depending on your skin tone) and help to neutralise the effect of the problem. They work best together when dark circles strike; “If the shadow under your eye is particularly dark then concealer on its own can struggle to cut through it and you can be left with a dull grey finish,” explains Hannah. In other words, while it’s very easy to just smear concealer wherever you see a flaw, this can be counteractive. “Brightening your under eye first with a corrector will help to get the true colour and effect from your concealer.” Choose your corrector wisely; “If the shadow under your eye is bluey-pink, use a pinkish bisque corrector before your concealer,” says Hannah. “If it’s more of a brown tone then a peach corrector will do all the brightening you need.”
Try: Max Factor Colour Corrector Stick, £8.99, available in six shades, Smashbox Colour Correcting Stick, £18 available in four shades, Makeup Revolution Ultra Base Corrector Palette, £6, available at Superdrug
De-puff like a pro
When two tired, swollen eyes look back at you in the mirror first thing in the morning, think twice about slathering on the highlighter or brightener in an attempt to look more awake. “This will enhance the puffiness as those products are likely to contain radiant enhancing pigments which reflect light,” Jane explains. “Go for a matte concealer in a light shade instead and apply it just under the puffiness.”
Try:Seventeen Miracle Matte Concealer Stick, £3.99, available at Boots
Enhance your features
If there’s one thing we’ve learnt from Kim Kardashian, concealer is no longer just for covering the odd blemish, it has been seen to open up a whole new world of makeup trickery – accentuated cheekbones here, smaller nose there. But believe it or not, there are ways to create an illusion that don’t involve hiring Kim K’s entire contouring team. “To narrow your nose or help straighten the look of it, draw two vertical lines either side then a horizontal one on the tip,” advises Natalie Roche, education director for Amazing Cosmetics. “Blend it all in then apply a lighter concealer on the bridge of your nose.” To bring out your eyes, “apply concealer over your lids to hide redness and use a light shade under your brow bone and on the inner corner of your eye to lift and brighten,” recommends Jane. You can even use it to plump your lips; “After you’ve applied lipstick, use a light concealer to outline your lips with a blending brush,” Hannah explains. “This will give the illusion of a fuller lip edge and bigger lips.”
Illustration by Anna Sudit.
Rethink your application technique
There is no set pattern to stick to when applying concealer, but don’t cut corners: “Apply it right into the inner corner of your eye by the bridge of your nose and sweep it tightly along the lower lash line and under the eye, taking it down over the top of the cheekbone,” Hannah explains. Swot up on your tools too. “Synthetic brushes are best with creamy concealers as they don’t absorb the product like a natural fibre brush will,” she explains.
Try: Clinique Concealer Brush, £25. There’s nothing wrong with using your fingers either. “The warmth of your skin helps to melt the makeup into it and lift off any excess product for a natural finish.”
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