Blame Kylie and her Lip Kits, the resurgence of the '90s aesthetic, or Hollywood's obsession with monochromatic makeup, but the nude lip is having its moment in the spotlight. We'll pause here and let everyone who doesn't love a statement lip do a little celebration dance. Why? Because with this shift comes tons of new shades (albeit neutral ones) and formulas to choose from, elevating the non-statement lip from an afterthought to a full-blown look.
In fact, according to global market research company The NPD Group, 2015 marked a historic moment: Sales of nude and brown lip colours surpassed the pink or red category. What's more, lip colour saw some of the highest growth across all colour-cosmetic categories. The lips have it, sales would say. Of course, data aside, it's hard to ignore the uptick in beige, brown, and mauve on the red carpet and on social media — everyone's going nude, it seems.
But there's a downside. "Not all nude lipsticks are created equal," says celebrity makeup artist Kira Nasrat. In fact, finding a good neutral can be more difficult that finding a great red. Luckily, we've got all the tips and tricks you'll need to master a defined, beautiful, neutral lip — and it's all about getting the right undertone, then mixing and matching, Nasrat says. We're inclined to follow every bit of advice: Nasrat's name appears in the black books of stars like Gwyneth Paltrow, Jessica Alba, Jamie Chung, Olivia Culpo, Lupita Nyong'o, and Bebe Rexha — and one of her specialties is crafting their perfect nude pouts.
Naturally, we enlisted Nasrat to help choose the right shade for every skin tone, ahead.
Prep
You already know that prepping the lips by lightly exfoliating them is key. After you do that, dab on a rich balm and let it soak in while you do your face makeup. Once you're ready to start on the lips, blot off the excess balm. (Nasrat swears by Sara Happ’s grainy scrub and By Terry’s rose-spiked balm for this, but a soft toothbrush and any rich balm will work, too.)
If you prefer an opaque, creamy lipstick, start by lightly applying a touch of foundation over the lip line and around the outside of the lips using a damp sponge. This will help create a blank canvas for your colour and ensure your lipstick lasts as long as possible. Opting for a sheer finish? Skip this step.
Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge, £4.08, available at Target.
Line
"When I am creating a sheer nude lip, I try to avoid using lip liner,” Nasrat says, noting that opting out of liner gives a more natural-looking finish. If you’re concerned about keeping your colour in place, she offers this tip: A reverse liner outside of your lip line will keep the colour from traveling. She swears by Lipstick Queen’s invisible formula, or try E.L.F.'s cheaper option if you prefer to hit the drugstore. “It’s great for when you’re not feeling that lip-liner look,” she says.
If you are after a more opaque, creamy finish, take this advice:
For something universally-flattering, Nasrat recommends Laura Mercier’s Natural Lips liner for pale to fair skin tones and MAC’s Spice for medium to deep skin tones. Simply define the borders and lightly fill in the entire lip.
Laura Mercier Lip Pencil in Natural Lips, £19.64, available at Nordstrom.
Consider A Palette
We'll call out Nasrat's shade tips ahead, but before we jump in: Consider skipping a single lip colour altogether and pick up a palette. "People always ask me what nudes my clients are wearing, but honestly, it's always more than one," she says, adding that a palette loaded with great pinks, beiges, and browns can be the perfect option.
Fair to medium skin tones will benefit from the light pink and golden hues in this drugstore option.
L'Oreal Colour Riche La Palette Lip Nude, £12.99, available at Boots.
For those with medium to deep skin tones, Nasrat always uses this palette from MAC, thanks to its golden tones and blendable shades of both caramel and brown-based neutrals. "It's gorgeous on darker skin tones," she says.
MAC Pro Lip Palette in Modern Browns, £35, available at MAC.
Pale To Fair
Look for: Cool-toned beige-pinks
When working with stars like Sophie Turner or Gwyneth Paltrow, Nasrat opts for rosy shades of pink. Keeping the undertone neutral to cool is a safe bet — and feel free to experiment with creamy beige as well, just make sure it has a pink undertone and is a touch darker than your complexion.
Splurge: Urban Decay Vice Lipstick in Morning After, £15, available at John Lewis.
Want a cool-toned beige-pink for less dough? Look to L'Oreal's Fairest Nude.
Save: L'Oreal Colour Riche Lip Colour in Fairest Nude, £4.90, available at Target.
Medium Skin Tones
Look for: Warm shades rooted in peach with golden undertones
When working on longtime client Jamie Chung, or on celebs like Jessica Alba, Lea Michelle, or Camila Alves, the rules are more fluid. "Those with medium or olive skin tones can really go either way," Nasrat explains, meaning cool or warm tones can work. However, she prefers a warmer, more golden look, so it's often her favourite neutral, Tom Ford's Spanish Pink, that wins.
Splurge: Tom Ford Beauty Lip Colour in Spanish Pink, £38, available at Net-a-Porter.
Milani's option rings in at under £5 and offers a peachy-pink tone and medium-intensity finish that's easy to layer.
Save: Milani Colour Statement Lipstick in Nude Creme, £4.08, available at Target.
Dark to Deep
Look for: Warm, golden shades of brown
When celebs like Samira Wiley or Lupita Nyong'o are in her chair, Nasrat opts for warm, rich shades of brown and avoids anything too beige or cool in tone. "Golden Browns look rich and luscious on darker skin tones," she says.
Splurge: MAC Lipstick in Paramount, £15.50, available at MAC.
For a warm brown with a rich, golden undertone, opt for Nyx's Kiss The Dust — it's a near match for MAC's option.
Save: Nyx Full Throttle Lipstick in Kiss The Dust, £5.50, available at Boots.
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