J.W.Anderson's intimate show for SS17 wasn't one for claustrophobes. The front (and only) row in the tightly-packed vibrant green corridor was so close to the catwalk that bags brushed editors' knees. And my god the bags. But first and foremost the clothes. Jonathan Anderson explained backstage: "We started with the idea how do we make it more grounded... taking things from the past and bringing them to the present and playing with this idea, one I have done before of overt masculinity." And while he continued to challenge societal conventions on male and female dressing, this season taking inspiration from the masculine shapes of Tudor King, Henry VIII, the collection was decidedly girly and perhaps the most wearable to date.
Made up of ombre fades and rainbow shades including vivid yellows, pinks and blue the collection consisted of luxurious semi-quilted shirts, knitted tunics with exaggerated donut-shaped cuffs and necklines, a ruched bomber jacket dress and undulating hemlines finished off with mismatched earrings and lace-up boots. Traditional shapes were reworked in linen to give them an undergarment feel as Anderson explained: "I've always been obsessed by linen, I think that's because when I was a child, when I was at home in Ireland that was my first interaction with material and fabric. We did corduroy linen many years ago but this time I wanted something that felt crafty and artisan."
This was another exquisite collection from Jonathan Anderson, London's most revered designer, who consistently creates the most luxury fashion in an experimental, thought-provoking and subversive way, albeit if this season was slightly more commerical than past.
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