We first noticed these lovely, gleaming, golden vagina pendants on Instagram about a year ago. Then, all our favourite Instagram babes were onto them. And who can blame them? From a distance, Suzzan Atala's heavier-than-they-look golden genitalia looks like the Virgin Mary and if you squint it looks like a rose. It's only when you get close that you realise, it's well, labia.
We're down for anything that celebrates the female form, especially if you can wear it around your neck with pride. However, it's not just Suz's vags that caught our magpie-eye. Her jewellery line, Tuza, is inspired by her formative years in Mexico, her current life in Manhattan and her faithful little pooch Lola, and is the internet's best kept secret. Chunky curb chains, flaming hearts and the prettiest hoops: Tuza's captured our heart. We sat down with the 29-year-old artist to find out her craft secrets, what makes her tick, and how she got to gold-plating mini vaginas.
When and why did you start Tuza?
I used to make kitschy sculpted earrings covered in glitter for my friends when I was at uni, then post-graduation I stumbled into a jewellery internship: it was at that point I realised making jewellery was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. I had studied technical sculpture but I took courses to learn the technical side of jewellery design where I learned how to translate my ideas into actual tangible things.
What does the name mean?
It was my nickname when I was younger. There's an old Mexican film with a little girl called Tuzita whose father is a badass villain but he can't help but be soft and compassionate towards his daughter. He is a single dad and my dad was too, so when my step mum met me she used to call me Tuzita and it evolved into Tuza.
What do you love about jewellery?
I love that jewellery has longevity; it holds sentimental value and can be kept forever. The permanence of metal allows for jewellery to last such a long time which makes it more than just a fashionable item, and more like a piece of wearable art. I love that jewellery can be gifted and passed on from one generation to another and hardly loses its value or beauty.
What’s your cult piece?
Definitely the Vagina Charm Necklace. It's a piece from a collaboration with my dear friend Maia Ruth Lee, a super talented NY-based artist. We made a whole collection of charms, with each trinket representing modern life. With the VG we wanted to evoke thoughts of the Virgin Mary. We had no idea that people would react so positively to it!
Who's worn your designs?
Our first ever sale was to Scout Willis who I met at Capsule, (a New York Fashion Week trade show) when we were launching the brand for the first time. That was such a stroke of luck as she told her friends about us; like mega-babes, Chelsea Leyland and Adwoa Aboah who also now wear our jewellery.
What’s your favourite piece you’ve ever designed and why?
I love all the pieces (oh god that sounds so arrogant!) but I genuinely do. My favourites change according to my mood and the season but the piece I currently love the most is yet to come out. It’s a part of the SS17 collection “RIO” and captures the light so beautifully and flatters the shape of a face. My all-time favourite is the Three-stone Choker because it looks so classy yet it’s so distinctive.
Where do you make your jewels?
We make all of our pieces in our workshop in Mexico City. Everything is made from scratch except for one necklace that requires a special vintage machine that has been discontinued. We also outsource our Lapidary as that is a whole different craft! Everything else is made with all the love and care in our workshop by my amazing and talented jewellers.
Where do you buy jewellery?
Mainly when I travel. I love to see things that I would never find on Instagram so most of them tend to be vintage pieces. I also buy jewellery from other talented jewellers that happen to be my friends like Hannah DeBruyn and Shalah Karimi.
What is inspiring your next collection?
In this collection I’ve been inspired by rivers; their strength, the colours, and their constant movement and flow. I wanted the collection to inspire liveliness, strength and to give a sense of endlessness or eternity.
Where do you start when you are planning a new line?
I usually find a title from a song or book or something I have seen and then conceptualise the idea. I make myself a brief to develop the new pieces around that concept; they all have to tell a story together.
Who’s your TBT style icon?
Cher… forever!
Gold or silver, or both and why?
Definitely both (and rose gold too!) I think if you manage to wear it well both metals complement and contrast each other beautifully.
Do you have any rules when it comes to wearing jewellery well?
Yes, for sure! I think that when it comes to rings and statement earrings you have to give them space. A beautiful ring is a sculpture and your finger is the plinth so if you saturate it too much then it won’t have the same appeal and statement.
What’s next for Tuza?
2016 is going to bring so many new and exciting opportunities for Tuza especially in Mexico and NYC!
Where can we buy Tuza?
You can buy Tuza on our website, and via our stockists such as Sincerely Tommy, Otiumberg, XY Atelier, Pam Pam and Other Wild.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
The Retro Swim Trend That's Taking Over
How To Get Your Zara Order Delivered Faster Than Ever Before