Of the thousands of exotic and instant-results ingredients touted in skin care, one has remained at the forefront for hundreds of years: plain and simple H2O. Skin dry and tired? Drink more water! It’s a nice idea — that something so readily available can also be a cure-all for skin. But it’s also a pretty broken one. Research hasn’t really backed up the idea that consuming water will make skin more hydrated.
Here’s what we do know: Our skin needs hydration, which is why water is found in so many of our beauty products. “Water typically acts as more than just a filler [in skin-care products],” says Raja Sivamani, MD, a dermatologist and assistant professor of clinical dermatology at UC Davis, who holds additional specialties in bioengineering and Ayurvedic medicine. “It contributes to the physical and chemical properties of a skin-care product.”
Water does play an important role in helping the other active ingredients in a product perform. But what about specialty waters in skin care? Products that feature mineral waters from such geologically unique places as the Dead Sea or Icelandic glaciers, botanical waters including rose and artichoke, and, lately, waters that have been steeped in so-called healing energies, are all at the ready. Do these superwaters bring more purity to a product or more skin benefits than today’s typical water supply, or are they just gussied-up, more expensive versions of what's pouring out of your faucet?
To help drill down on how these mineral, botanical, and ionic waters really affect skin, we consulted a coterie of complexion pros. Because while the whole fountain-of-youth thing has proved itself a bust (so far, at least), modern-day science and old-school geological wonders might prove once and for all that when it comes to skin care, water is the answer.
Thermal Spring Water
Collected from far-flung springs in Hungary, France, and other locales, thermal spring water boasts a diverse mineral content, thanks to the way rainwater travels and filters through mineral-rich, porous rocks, collecting trace minerals along the way. People have long flocked to thermal springs to bathe in their "healing" mineral waters. And research supports the skin benefits of immersing yourself in the stuff. But when it comes to using the waters within a topical skin-care product to reap the same skin-bolstering benefits? Well, the jury is still out.
“The role of mineral waters [is] not clear in topical products. The minerals will not be micronised uniformly, and penetration is likely to be low, since the stratum corneum is a powerful barrier,” says Dr. Sivamani, noting that, “there are some pathways through which water can get through.”
But Jeannette Graf, MD, a New York-based dermatologist and author of Stop Aging, Start Living, notes that “minerals found in thermal springs are soft and soothing and penetrate the skin more easily.” And this study, in which animal wounds were dressed with thermal water containing calcium and magnesium versus a thicker petrolatum, indicated that the mineral water helps boost collagen and elastin regeneration and overall healing.
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Budapest isn’t known as a spa capital for nothing — many travellers come to Hungary solely to bathe in its many thermal springs. Meanwhile, local MDs prescribe regular dips for their patients — something that’s subsidised by the government. That's because the waters here contain plenty of minerals, thanks to the country's special geological characteristics.
“The Earth's crust there is thinner than almost anywhere else in the world,” says Omorovicza cofounder Stephen de Heinrich. “The heat penetration from the sun is greater, and water gathers more minerals on its way to the surface. As a result, these waters are unusually rich in minerals.”
Because most of us can’t lounge in a Hungarian thermal spring without taking an international flight and a few vacation days, the scientists at Omorovicza apply some pretty advanced processes to maximise the skin benefits of mineral water straight from the bottle.
The mineral molecules in the water taken from the company’s own family spring are bio-fermented (manipulated with yeast to single out their purified components), so they can better penetrate the skin. Once inside the skin’s outermost layer, the minerals can trigger the body's natural healing responses. The delivery of copper and zinc into the skin, for example, help trigger collagen production, de Heinrich says.
Try: Along with the Queen of Hungary Mist, this hydrating essence contains the highest concentration of the brand’s thermal water, which contains more than 20 minerals and trace elements. It also incorporates lactic acid to help gently exfoliate the skin.
Omorovicza Omoressence, £75, available at Omorovicza.
As lore goes, the spring from which Avène’s thermal water is drawn was originally discovered in the 1700s by a horse with bad skin. After it had been set loose in France’s Cévennes Mountains, the horse discovered the Sainte-Odile thermal spring, with its underground reserve of water that had flowed through dolomite rock, collecting silicate and trace elements of iron, manganese, zinc, and copper along the way. After soaking in and drinking the spring’s water, the horse emerged with a shiny coat and improved skin. More than 100 years later, the water was used to soothe burn victims of the Great Chicago Fire.
But a more modern discovery at the spring — that of a microorganism called aqua dolomiae, in 2001 — is what helps make this beauty brand’s thermal spring water stand out today.
Try: A straight shot of the thermal spring water (which is packaged in such a way that no outside air or other formula-diluting elements can get inside) is said to soothe skin and produce anti-itch and anti-inflammatory relief.
These unique actives — which come from deep within the spring and are speculated to be unique to this spring alone — combined with the thermal water’s own minerals can also help strengthen sensitive skin by stimulating its own protective mechanisms. On top of its soothing benefits, the water’s low mineral content can deliver a smoothing effect.
Avène Thermal Spring Water, £7, available at Boots.
Volcanic Mineral Water
Sounds cool, right? Another mineral-grabbing water, this H2O is filtered through volcanic rock in one of the most thorough purifying processes water can go through.
Once thermal pressure brings the mineral water to the surface, it’s loaded with 15 minerals that are thought to help prevent water loss at the skin’s surface and strengthen its protective barrier.
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After passing through 13,000 feet of volcanic rock over the span of hundreds of years, rainwater in the Auvergne of France — where skin-care brand Vichy sources its water — absorbs minerals, including anti-inflammatory lithium and strontium, healing boron, and hydrogenocarbonate ions, which carry a buffer effect.
Try : This oil-free, whipped gel combines the brand’s highest concentration of mineral water — a substantial 10% — with hyaluronic acid to majorly hydrate without the greasiness or heaviness of a thick cream.
Vichy Aqualia Thermal Mineral Water Gel, £18, available at My Derma Center.
Glacial Water
This type of hydrator starts as rainfall, snow, and ice residing atop a glacier that trickles its way downslope, filtering through mountains’ porous, volcanic rock, dubbed “tuff,” and collecting trace minerals before running underground to pick up volcanic minerals from lava rock. Finally, it emerges via ancient lava fields and thermal baths. Yes, Icelandic glacial water is better traveled than we are.
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The result of this travel is extremely pure water, according to Tom Vichorski, a chemist who works with Skyn Iceland. “Think of your standard carbon water filter,” he says, noting that the brand’s water is pumped from holes between 30 and 260 feet deep, far away from atmospheric or surface soil pollution. “Now think of that filter extending miles beneath the Earth’s surface — that’s why the water is so pure.” The specialty water used by Skyn Iceland originates atop the country's Blue Mountains.
Try : These sticky eye gels have among the highest concentration of glacial water in the brand’s range and are made to de-stress skin on a cellular level. “Stress depletes vitamins and minerals in the skin, especially magnesium, which is critical to skin health and keeping our bodies in balance,” Vichorski explains. “Glacial water provides the minerals that the skin needs to function properly to overcome the various stresses imposed upon it — heat, cold, light, etc.” Did our skin cells chillax after 15 minutes under these gels? It’s hard to tell. But we definitely felt the spa-like "aah" while wearing them. Afterward, the skin under our eyes looked less puffy.
Skyn Iceland Hydro Cool Firming Eye Gels, £25, available at M&S.
Dead Sea Water
Spring water isn’t the only H2O with mineral mojo. For thousands of years, people have flocked to the Dead Sea to soak in its healing waters — which contain up to 10 times as many minerals as any other sea, ocean, or lake, according to Dana Miller, director at Ahava North America. Today, millions do the same to experience a salty float and benefit from the minerals' skin-mending properties.
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The rest of us can get in on the action remotely by applying lotions or gels made with Dead Sea water; research from the company has shown that when applied topically, Dead Sea minerals can soften skin. And that’s not all. After discovering that the Dead Sea’s minerals consist of a balanced composition that matches the concentration of minerals in our own skin when healthy, the scientists at Ahava went to work to harness this composition in order to help bump up the skin’s own hydration and luminosity. But it wasn’t easy.
The Dead Sea’s healing minerals are made up of big molecules. And traditionally, they’ve been hard to manipulate into a formulation that’s easily absorbed into the skin. But researchers found a way to trigger the skin’s own internal healing and hydrating mechanisms just by putting minerals on top of it.
Try : The Dead Sea Crystal Osmoter contains Dead Sea minerals in a concentration that creates pressure on the skin’s surface that sparks key healing activities within, like pulling hydration to the skin’s upper layer from its deeper layer below. According to the brand, users in a study reported an increase in skin-firming when using this serum.
Ahava Dead Sea Crystal Osmoter X6 Facial Serum, £62, available at Ahava.
Flower Water
It’s easy to look at a hydrosol spiked with flower-derived essential oils or a flower-water mist and think of it as fluff. These sprays smell amazing, and definitely do their part to calm the mind when your cubicle mate is loudly chewing with her mouth open. But past the smell-goods and feel-goods a spritz provides, it’s hard to imagine what these dainty waters can actually do.
As it turns out, there are a lot more skin benefits to floral waters than meets the eye. Because of antioxidants, UV protection, and antibacterial properties found in flower petals themselves, the distillation of these plants — and use of their essential oils — can offer a range of skin benefits. No wonder they’ve been used by ancient civilisations and fancy 18th-century French people.
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Roses may be marketed as the flower of love (can you imagine the Bachelor handing out carnations?), but in skin care, the flower is medicinal. Doctors and religious leaders have used the botanical water for hundreds of years to quell inflammation, while more recent studies have indicated that of 10 tested essential oils, rosa damascena (Damask rose) showed to have the greatest activity against the bacteria associated with acne. Elements in rose petals are also shown to be antioxidants and to absorb UV light. As if that weren't enough, its petals contain vitamin C, an antioxidant. Impressive stuff.
But can a rosewater — which uses steam distilled from the plant — pack as strong a punch? According to Dr. Graf, yes. “Rosewater has been found to be soothing and anti-ageing, with some astringent and anti-redness properties as well,” she confirms.
Try : Making a quality rosewater takes tons of material and a ridiculous amount of time. We're talking thousands of roses per batch, people. So it likely won’t be cheap. This option uses hand-picked Rose de Mai, which is said to totally dissolve, then reconstitute in the water, leaving its healing properties intact. And, unlike the blooms handed out by Bachelors, it doesn't come with drama, desperation, or diva behaviour.
Chantecaille Rose de Mai Pure Rosewater, £52, available at Space NK.
Jasmine is another potent flower with a rich beauty history. It’s rumoured that Cleopatra bathed in jasmine essential oil before seducing Mark Antony. But mythical rituals aside, the flower does pack promise for our skin. Research has shown its essential oil to be an effective antifungal and antimicrobial, and its plant extract to help heal wounds.
Try : This botanical blend works as a hydrating toner, using a jasmine hydrosol alongside hyaluronic acid to help draw moisture into the skin. And it happens to smell like heaven — just in case you have a Mark Antony type you’re looking to seduce.
Tata Harper Floral Essence, £70, available at Cult Beauty.
Fruit & Vegetable Water
Fruit and vegetable waters are making their way into beauty as a way of hydrating skin and restoring its density. They aren’t yet everywhere in skin care, but they are popping up in beauty’s global epicentre: South Korea. Sure, applying artichoke water may sound strange now. But if now commonplace ingredients like bee venom and snail slime are any indication, these will likely be showing up on our next favourite products’ ingredient lists in 3...2...
Designed by Elliot Salazar.
Artichoke water as skin treatment? After seeing so-called asparagus water (a bottle of water with a few stalks stuck in) bottled and sold for high prices in specialty grocery stores, it’s easy to label something like artichoke water as a gimmick. But K-beauty brands are starting to include water and artichoke-leaf extract in skin-care products in efforts to help boost the skin’s elasticity.
Dr. Graf says its end game is keeping skin’s hydration and structure in check. “Artichoke creams are the benefits of normalising keratinocyte or skin cell growth in mature skin, which can help maintain skin structure and restore density and hydration,” she says. “Ultimately, this also helps restore moisture-barrier function.”
Try : This essence features lots of plant-based ingredients. But its unique combination of 60% artichoke-leaf extract with antibacterial witch-hazel water and hydrating ceramides helps make the formulation a winner for dry and ageing skin.
Yuri Pibu Artichoke Power Essence, £28, available at ebay.
We’ve heard of 24K gold in skin care. And even the use of of platinum. But caviar water? That’s a new one. If it sounds rare, that's because it is — the ingredient is newly developed by La Prairie scientists and has never been used in skin care before.
So what is it, exactly? It’s steam distilled from caviar beads,made by a similar distilling process used to make rosewater. “By applying the steam distillation to the caviar beads, we capture a blend of ingredients that we do not get with a normal classical extraction. Among the components captured in the water, one can find omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acid derivatives,” explains Dr. Jacqueline Hill, Director of Strategic Innovation & Science at La Prairie.
According to Hill, this new food-grade water is a crystal-clear active fluid that provides hydrating, firming and refreshing benefits to the skin.
Try: This liquid-gel essence is paired with vitamin and protein-rich caviar extract and ingredients to tighten and lift, like oat and yeast extracts. It somehow packs the magic of making skin look and feel awake, but not tingly.
La Prairie Skin Caviar Essence-in-Lotion, $240, available at Neiman Marcus.
Crystal Water
When social media players start posting pics from gemstone-driven healing sessions on Instagram (ahem, Kylie Jenner), then consider it a sign that crystals have hit a tipping point. But trends aside, those wishing to tap into energetic healing and sacred geometry have been infusing waters with quartz, hematite, jade, and other precious and semi-precious stones for eons.
There’s not much in the way of traditional medical studies to back up claims that such water absorbs and stores the crystals’ energy patterns or better aligns its user with the universal life force. And many derms have a hard time weighing in on any skin-benefit claims. But it is something that has been happening long before Instagram came along: The ancient Chinese alchemy text Tan Chin Yao Ch’eh mentions using mercury and sulphur to create immortality elixirs.
Designed by Elliot Salazar.
Try : If you’re not sure whether tapping a stone’s vibrations can make for good skin, try a crystal-infused water that also boasts scientifically proven benefits — like this rose quartz-spiked tonic that also makes use of soothing rosewater.
Själ Skincare Mineral Källa Energy Tonic, £47, available at Space NK.
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