The very essence of 'fashion' is constant change. But this year, more than ever before, the fashion week calendar is (almost) being turned on its head, as brands boldly reject the traditional schedule and show system and herald in a new era for the industry.
Brand du jour Vetements, for example, will atypically show menswear and womenswear in January and June from next year, while Tom Ford revealed in February that he will showcase his AW16 men’s and womenswear designs in September, nearer to when the collections actually become available in store.
In a similar vein, over the past couple of seasons, leading fashion houses have begun merging menswear and womenswear with mixed gender shows. In September, Burberry and Bottega Veneta will combine their men’s and women’s collections in one catwalk showcase and next year both Gucci and Tommy Hilfiger will follow their lead with co-ed shows too.
So what does this mean for London Collections Men, the menswear platform that launched in the capital in June 2012, elevating British menswear and finally putting men's fashion under the same spotlight as women's? Is it still relevant, or, after just nine seasons, is LCM losing its mojo?
For SS17, LCM put on a notably new face as many of Britain's best menswear designers and brands expanded on or introduced womenswear to their collections. Calvin Klein, Brioni, Cavalli, Ermanno Scervino and a number of other Italian brands have all chosen to withdraw from the Milan menswear schedule later this month and though there were some obvious absences from the LCM calendar this season (*ehem* Burberry), we think the London's menswear showcase is as exciting and dynamic as ever – even more so for being bolstered by the inclusion of womenswear.
With that said, we've rounded up some of our favourite looks for women from LCM SS17. Here come the girls...
Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner has been one of the hottest names in menswear since she graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2014. In November of last year she won Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards and is currently shortlisted for the LVMH prize – the most prestigious fund and highest accolade in the industry.
Her gender fluid collections have won her rave reviews from menswear and womenswear editors and buyers alike, and this season the young designer and Fashion East alumni presented her first solo showcase of men’s and womenswear to unanimous praise.
The collection, which drew inspiration from the messianic figure of the mid 20th century Ethiopian emperor Haile Selassie, was influenced by Caribbean elements and European tailoring, resulting in a poetic series of pieces, rendered in a serene palette of black and white, with flashes of red and navy blue.
This exquisitely cut dress coat is top of our wish list for next season.
Photo: GETTY
Topman Design
Topshop is the highstreet hero for most Brit girls and we can always count on the Topman show at LCM for a slightly tongue-in-cheek showcase that celebrates different aspects of British culture.
This season, Topman championed Britain's beloved beach towns, such as Margate and Blackpool, with tops emblazoned with ice-cream cones, as well as looks that nodded to Teddy Boys, mods and Pearly Kings. Our highlights were the sharp silhouettes, particularly this salmon pink, streamlined suit that we'll be pinching off our boyfriend's back.
Photo: GETTY
Agi & Sam
Cow print and checks are some of our favourite things so put them together and we're in. For SS17, design duo Agi & Sam expanded their womenswear alongside a modern take on tailoring and boxy fits for a collection entitled the 'Modern House Husband'. And don't get us started on the ornate floral, face adornment that beautifully finished off a number of looks.
"We wanted to bring this collection back to tailoring — young designers aren’t doing tailoring anymore unless they’re on Savile Row,” Agi explained backstage. "Sam and I want to wear tailored clothing, but we’re 30 and we think we’d look ridiculous in a traditional suit."
Photo: GETTY
Casely-Hayford
For a brand so adored for their menswear tailoring, made-to-measure pieces and exploration of masculine British subcultures alongside African influence, it was a bold and unexpected move for Casely-Hayford to open their SS17 LCM show with womenswear.
But women have been increasingly urging the father-son design duo to cater for women – and lucky for us, they finally have. For SS17, the subversive luxury fashion house was inspired by grime and '70s rock, creating a rich and multi-faceted collection that seamlessly fused tracksuits with tailoring, and tribal necklaces with bleached denim and paisley prints. The brand collaborated with Cubitts for oversized sunglasses and Ancient Greek Sandals on the colourful footwear. But we're focused on this show-stopping blue coat.
Photo: GETTY
J.W.Anderson
With Little Prince crowns, cartoon details, aviator goggles, colourful layering and an exploration of volume and shape, J.W.Anderson's SS17 collection was a fashion fairytale.
Though wearing flares, a waistcoat, a ribbed dress and hoodie all at once might be slightly out of your sartorial comfort zone, individually, these are the must-have pieces for your spring wardrobe next year.
Photo: GETTY
Alex Mullins
"SS17 brings lustful warm weather; baggy silhouettes breathe. Technology deletes details. Melted knots and liquified graphics wither in the sun. Romanticised rose petals become machines, in this oxymoron of industrialised romanticism,” the designer explained in the press release for his collection inspired by the internet age and memes. This belted shirt, jacket and trousers with pops of yellow was our standout from Mullins' covetable collection.
Photo: GETTY
Astrid Andersen
For years, Danish-born, London-based menswear designer Astrid Andersen has fused streetwear with formal wear, offering London's coolest kids looks that are gender neutral and effortlessly stylish. For SS17, Andersen asked us to consider “time” within her collection, the blurred lines between season and nature, how it stretches before us and slips away behind.
Traditional silhouettes were given technical finishes, and more conservative knits were reworked in progressive shapes all underpinned by Andersen’s signature casual aesthetic that is transformed into premium luxury wear.
This season also marked her womenswear debut and though we loved the looks specifically for girls, it's this bomber and those lace-trimmed shorts that caught our eye in the whole collection.
Photo: Astrid Andersen
Sibling
This season, Sibling sent a postcard from tropical Miami via the low-rider vibe of California, with a sun-drenched and acid-tongued collection influenced by their observations of the poolside scene. Silhouettes were inspired by beach and sportswear, and incredibly buff Sibling boys strode out in budgie smugglers, pyjama suits, deckchair denim and towels. But big boys in tiny knitwear aside, it was this corseted cricket jumper that we can't wait to wear.
Photo: Sibling
Craig Green
Craig Green's is the most eagerly-anticipated show on the LCM schedule and his collections have famously brought editors to tears. This season signified a pivotal point for the designer as he explored colour, pattern and detailed construction in a way he hadn't delved into before. Backstage, Green opened up about his garments billowing like tarpaulins about the body, and revealed that the entire collection began around a Scout scarf and a deep sense of belonging. Speaking of belonging, we want this vividly patterned look to belong to us.
Photo: GETTY
Katie Eary
"It's a fun collection about the dark things that preoccupy me, viewed though a prism of memory and touched by a feeling of luxury" explained Katie Eary of her SS17 collection which centred on stars, stripes and predatory fish. A continuation from last season's satin pyjama collection, both men and women were wrapped in the luxury of cashmere, rich, starry silks and fish print shirts and dresses in a wearable collection with a consistent theme.
We loved the juxtaposition of this slinky, sexy dress and the voluminous, fluffy jacket, all downplayed with Ellesse slides to add edge to the glamour and echoing the theme of "smooth on the surface, disturbed in the depths."
Photo: GETTYLike what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
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