Starting a month ago today on February 11th, the whirlwind that is fashion month has finally wound down. As editors unpack their suitcases, models put their feet up and designers enjoy a fleeting mini-break, we look back at some of the highlights from New York, London, Milan and Paris.
With an industry in a state of flux due to the musical chairs of key designers and a transitional, pivotal period moving away from old retail modes towards a more see-now-buy now approach, AW16 heralded a season of change. We saw both design debuts and major comebacks, as Mulberry and McQueen returned to LFW. We also saw Kendall and her Insta squad rule the catwalks, cropping up in countless shows, from Balmain to Miu Miu.
But social media models aside, catwalk diversity was a hot topic of conversation amongst attendees as some leading, international houses failed to include even one non-Caucasian model in their lineup, highlighting a fashion paradox of an industry insistent on change but entrenched with old-fashioned perceptions of beauty.
Speaking of newness and change, for years, top dogs such as Nicolas Ghesquière, Riccardo Tisci, and Phoebe Philo have been the main draw at PFW but emergent brands such as Jacquemus and Vetements stole headlines with directional and thought-provoking creations. Likewise in London, young talent such as Marta Jakubowski, Ashley Williams, Marques Almeida, Molly Goddard, and the new Fashion East trio grabbed our attention with unique designs and Marc Jacobs even popped up in the frow at AV Robertson's show.
As the buzz dies down and the street style stars restock their wardrobes, here are some of the highlights and major talking points from the AW16 shows....
Demna Gvasalia's debut at Balenciaga
Since Alexander Wang's departure from the French fashion house and the appointment of Vetements' Demna Gvasalia in October, the industry waited with bated breath to see how the young designer's creative vision would translate to Balenciaga.
Hailed as a key proponent of the 'New Order' of fashion by the Business of Fashion, lauded by the majority of other publications and worn by the most influential editors, for his Balenciaga debut, Gvasalia impressed the rapt audience with stunning structured daywear combined with street staples (we've shotgunned the off-the-shoulder puffer jackets) - and luxury silhouettes.
However, less impressive was the all-white casting showcased at both Balenciaga and Vetements. For someone at the fore of challenging tradition and taking fashion in a new direction, we might have hoped that Gvasalia would naturally champion diversity and confront archaic conventions. Following a minor backlash against the designer du jour, let's hope this was only a little blip in his glorious ascent.
Photo: Getty
DKNY does 90s grunge glamour
For their second collection at the brand, DKNY designers and Public School boys Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne transformed Donna Karan's original pinstriped power suit from the 90s, bringing it into 2016 with deconstructing, modern tailoring, and XXL silhouettes.
Silk T-shirts were emblazoned with the message 'insert logo here' a tongue-in-cheek, meta play on the logomania of the 90s, of which DKNY played a crucial role. Though just two seasons in, there's understandably room for growth, we're enjoying the design duo's risk-taking, updating and reinvigorating a brand that needed a breath of fresh air.
Photo: Getty
Christopher Kane's lost and found collection
"There is an idea of beauty expired this season" the designer explained at his LFW AW16 show, inspired by the recluses, hoarders and compulsive collectors on the periphery of society. With a haunting and decaying glamour, the collection featured wilting rose prints, plastic rain hats, embroidered cardigans, shredded ribbons, drooping floral details and the signature Kane Chantilly lace was felted and faded beyond recognition.
Elevating his eccentric muse, Christopher Kane's collection was a standout on the London fashion week schedule, masterfully making the ordinary, extraordinary.
Photo: Getty
Nicolas Ghesquière updates sports luxe at Louis Vuitton
Set in a futuristic forest/ancient ruins with cracked mirrored columns, Selena Gomez, Alicia Vikander and Lea Seydoux sat front row to see Nicolas Ghesquière’s girl gang evolve from intergalactic punk fembots from last season into sassy, sports luxe sophisticates. His AW16 ladies wore satin T-shirts, skinny leather trousers, sweatpants, graphic stripy mohair knits, teddy coats and cashmere bodysuits and dresses.
"I wanted to reflect something quite quiet and archaeological,” said Ghesquière backstage after the show. “It was my idea of an Atlantis city, when you discover something that makes you feel like you’re on a beautiful archaeological site, but again, in my way, with my vision." As always, the designer's collection superbly fused old and new, with a sporty-themed core that was anything but basic, elevating the trend to the pinnacle of luxury fashion.
Photo: Getty
Alessandro Michele strikes again at Gucci
If it's somehow passed you by, Alessandro Michele is the hottest thing in fashion right now. Since his appointment at the beginning of 2015, he has completely revolutionised the dated brand, his Gucci shows have become the hottest ticket and his accessories have been seen on every street style star and editor. Reflecting his new cult status, this week it was announced that Alessandro Michele will be designing the wardrobe for the upcoming Florence + the Machine "How Beautiful" tour.
But what about his AW16 collection at MFW? Well, it was a continuation of his celebration of colour, print and his eccentric geek-chic aesthetic and it was just as delicious as his previous collections. "I think people sense when there’s a lot of passion behind something," Michele explained backstage. "That’s what they’re responding to."
Photo: Getty
Dior and Lanvin unveil collections without creative directors
2015 marked a year of significant change in fashion as some of the biggest names in the business left their positions and new designers waited in the wings. After just three years at the helm, designer Raf Simons left Dior, citing creative exhaustion and the need for privacy. As yet his replacement has not been announced though gossip and speculation abounds that everyone from Sarah Burton and Olivier Theyskens to Alessandro Michele may take his place. In the absence of a new head designer, the house has slightly floundered without direction. Far stronger than the couture offering in January, the AW16 though accomplished still missed a certain je ne sais quoi.
Similarly, following Alber Elbaz's unceremonious removal from his post in October 2015, Lanvin has been struggling without a creative director, and the inconsistent, weak AW16 collection proved this. However, today it was announced that couturier Bouchra Jarrar will be taking the helm of the house from SS17 so we wait to see the new era for Lanvin and readily welcome a female at the top of a French fashion house.
Photo: Getty
Miu Miu's all-star model lineup at show styled by Katie Grand
Bombshell babes hit the catwalk at Miu Miu for AW16, with models including Lara Stone, Irina Shayk, Adriana Lima, and Emily Ratajkowski all part of the stellar lineup. The inclusion of Insta-famous faces cemented the power and importance of this new wave of social media supermodels who are the reigning queens of fashion, from highstreet to luxury. Kendall Jenner, Gigi and Bella Hadid also walked in the show, styled by super-stylist and LOVE ed-in-chief Katie Grand - the first Miu Miu show she has worked on since 2005.
The colourful collection focused on twinsets, layering, denim, tapestry coats and pearl-encrusted sandals. As to be expected, social media was immediately inundated with posts from the show concluding fashion month with a celebrity-shaped bang.
Photo: Getty
Prada presents standout collection
Reports published last week revealed a decline in annual revenues at the Prada group and after years of significant profits these hinted at dark times for the Italian fashion house. However, the AW16 collection marked Miuccia's return to the top.
With an abundance of ideas, the collection was an exquisite exploration of femininity with brocade skirts, corset belts, fur-trimmed coats, velvet dresses and looks embellished with pendants and embroidery. During the finale the collection received rapturous applause, whistles and whoops affirming it as one of, if not the standout show of the season.
Photo: Getty
Saint Laurent's surprise couture show
The fashion rumour-mill has been whirring faster than ever with the news that Hedi Slimane is parting ways with Saint Laurent after completely revamping the French fashion house since his appointment in 2012. Reliable sources insist that Parisian designer and Versus creative director Anthony Vaccarello is waiting in the wings should Slimane step down.
Whether or not Slimane's AW16 collection was his last for Saint Laurent he certainly pulled out all the stops with an unforgettable, surprise couture presentation. Held in an elegant hôtel on the Rue de l’Université, each editor was seated on a chair with their name engraved on a gold plate. There was no show soundtrack, instead look numbers were announced in both English and French, harking back to Yves' shows.
Of course Slimane's signature rock n roll aesthetic ran through the collection but it was reimagined with an 80s glamour with cinched minidresses, exaggerated shoulders and metallic court shoes.
Photo: Getty
J.W.Anderson's play with shape, silhouette and colour
J.W.Anderson is undoubtedly fashion's darling and his AW16 collection was yet another triumph. This season, the young designer focused on shape and colour in a sporty and contemporary take on occasion wear. "I was thinking about what feels modern in cocktail wear now, playing with structure, texture and proportion," Anderson explained.
We saw satin shirts with zip details, ruffled and undulating skirts, ruched trousers and architectural silhouettes. Alexa Chung keenly snapped pictures in the front row and no doubt she'll be papped herself in the collection in no time at all.
Photo: Getty
Alexander McQueen returns to London
After 15 long years away, Alexander McQueen finally returned to the LFW schedule for AW16. The last London show took place in 2001, when the late designer unveiled his S&M themed show but the British brand has been sorely missed for well over a decade. A heavily-pregnant Sarah Burton brought the fashion house back home with an ethereal, elegant collection featuring translucent bias-cut ruffles, romantic, embroidered quilted coats and dressed adorned with butterfly prints. Just dreamy.
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